good brake fluid??
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STF veteran / 10 second club
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From: New York
good brake fluid?? .
I know this has probably been posted before, but I searched for awhile and didn't really find any solid answers.
I have drilled/slotted rotors, hawk hps pads, and earl's lines ....
What brake fluid do you guys recommend for some-what agressive driving, but no auto-x or anything crazy?
I know this has probably been posted before, but I searched for awhile and didn't really find any solid answers.
I have drilled/slotted rotors, hawk hps pads, and earl's lines ....
What brake fluid do you guys recommend for some-what agressive driving, but no auto-x or anything crazy?
I'm flushing my brakes as I write this. I went to a speed shop and asked them. I was told if your not autox or really racing don't waste the money. I am using a dot 4 Valvoline synthetic that cost about $5.00 for a quart. Sometimes we spend good money on things that don't return a big bang for the buck. 
Originally Posted by CarnivorWS.6-01
I'm flushing my brakes as I write this. I went to a speed shop and asked them. I was told if your not autox or really racing don't waste the money. I am using a dot 4 Valvoline synthetic that cost about $5.00 for a quart. Sometimes we spend good money on things that don't return a big bang for the buck.
That's poor advice. Do you leave you brake fluid at home in a bottle when you drive down the street? No.
There are a number of things you want from brake fluid. Low fluid compression (after all it's a hydraulic system) and the lower the compression of the fluid the better the pedal feel. How resistant it is to abosrbing moisture (which the DOT rating is a minimum measure of) as well as dry and wet boiling points. For a hard driven street car, the wet boiling point is more critical, you want something high.
I suggest and sell a LOT of ATE Super Blue and/or Type 200 Fluid. Very low compressability. High dry boiling pt. of 536, sky high wet boiling pt. of 392. Exceeds DOT 4 specs for sucking in moisture. Great cost @ $12 a liter for fluid that many use to race on. Look how crappy your stock fluid is/was and tell me it doesn't get beaten on the street. Racing need not apply
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
BTW braking to me is one of the most important thing to me in any car. I consider it a saftey item as well as performance thing. I look at my brakes at the same way I look at seatbelts.
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STF veteran / 10 second club
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Joined: May 2003
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From: New York
Originally Posted by stang killer
BTW braking to me is one of the most important thing to me in any car. I consider it a saftey item as well as performance thing. I look at my brakes at the same way I look at seatbelts.
I agree ... I think alot of people who mod their cars into beasts forget that going fast isn't the only important thing, you need to STOP eventually as well.
Originally Posted by Judd
High priced but auguably the best- Castrol SRF. Medium priced but still having a good boiling point- Motul RBF. Cheap but better than average-Valvoline Synthetic.
I keep plenty here.....
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion