Weezzer

I've been thinking about doing the heater hose mod to lower the rear. I've seen some pictures of the rear isolator, and the spring-interface side of the isolator is shaped like the profile of the first full coil. It gives full support to the whole 360 degree diameter coil profile.

I haven't actually taken this assembly apart yet, but it appears the heater hose mod will not lend this full 360 degree support to the top coil of the spring, and since the heater hose will follow the contour of the spring, most of the force of the spring will be concentrated on a much smaller (limited) contact area of the top most portion of the spring-chassis interface.

It looks like this will cause future problems due to the increased localized area pressure, possibly resulting in fatigue failure, and/or may eventually cause erosion or wear through the contact portion - or it could cause severe localized deformation of the limited spring-chassis contact area.

1. To those who have done this mod, how does the spring profile fit/align with this heater hose mod vs. stock?

2. Has anyone noticed any accelerated wear and tear due to this mod, and if so-how long (and how many miles) has it been since this mod was done?

3. Has anyone chucked the stock isolator up in a lathe and cut the thickness down to lower the car?, If so-how much thickness can be turned off of the isolator without compromising its structural integrity?

TIA.

Bad Blu Formula

iTrader: (3)

I've had the heater hose mod done on my car for about 40k miles now without any problems. The only thing you need to do right the first time is choose a nice contouring hose that will stay in place and not deform. Time may take its toll on the hose and you might need to replace it some day, but they usually last a long time.

01formula6

iTrader: (7)

I've only had mine on for a couple hundred miles, no problems with the hose, but I do have a dead battery now

John_D.

iTrader: (2)

Good questions.

The stock isolator is rubber. With a bread knife you can saw off the top 1/2" or so. Stills leaves the correct curvature to support the spring end, but it's getting thin at the area at the tip of the spring. It's still better supported overall than using a length of hose.

Weezzer

Thats interesting. When was the last time you disassembled the rear suspension to the point you could visually inspect the exact condition of the components and examine them for wear and tear in relationship to this mod? I'm just curious if you have done this, with 40,000 miles on this mod it would be a good indicator of exactly how this mod holds up.


I agree with you that it would be better to do this but I'd much rather shave it down correctly and keep the component square and true by using a lathe or mill. That is, if I can get this done for a reasonable price.


I've heard the Z28 rear isolators are thinner than the ones on the WS6 & SS. Has anybody else heard this also? This may be an even better alternative than using the heater hose idea.


Thanks for the replies guys!

Bad Blu Formula

iTrader: (3)

I check up on it every 10k miles or so. Sometimes my rod ended PHR needs a little lubing or tighttening so I just go under there and check over things.

John_D.

iTrader: (2)

With it being rubber, any small imperfections will disappear when the weight of the car is on it.


The LT1 isolators are taller than the LS1 isolators according to a parts pdf I have.

The SS/WS6 bump stops are thinner, but are not preferred because they are harsher. The taller bump stop gives a better transition when you hit it.