I just received my powerslot rotors and found some instructions with them
which detail an elaborate break in procdure to temper(heat treat) the rotors.
The instructions also call for new pads as a must (mine or only a few kmiles old). Is this just to cover warranty claims for those out there who put the
powerslots on and go to the track right away or should I religiously adhere to the break-in instructions (they talk about 200-500 miles careful braking
which will take me 1 - 2 months because I don't drive that many miles per day).

Thanks,

Gert

 

Well....... its not elaborate. It is the correct way to bed rotors (and/or pads).

If you follow the instructions, you will find yourself much farther ahead of the curve and you wont be one of the many (here) that complain about susposed "warped" rotors (which 95% of them are not) or have the other associated problems that are discussed day to day.

First, lets purge ourselves of the term "warped".

In nearly every case, warped rotors are not physically warped at all. It is a common misconception that the rotors get hot enough to distort and then, upon cooling, end up looking like a pretzel. Contrary to popular belief, rotors simply do not warp in this fashion.

What most dont realize is what adherent and/or abrasive fricition is and how it effects brake operation. All brake pads operate in both modes and sometimes simultaneously. Typically though, most pads will operate in a primarily abrasive mode when they are cold and will then transition to an adherent mode as the brake temperature increases. This is why some pads require warming before they will be operating properly on track..... because they to go adherent before they exhibit their desired performance.

If you (or anyone) has ever used the ubiquitous Hawk Blue 9012 pads, then you know of what I speak. This material operates like a brake lathe (mega abrasive mode) until it gets hot enough to stop on a dime (ultra adherent mode.) Its also why you shouldnt run Hawk Blue pads on the street: the temperatures will never get hot enough to get out of the abrasive mode, and the rotors will pay the ultimate price.

Adherent friction. If you use primarily adherent pads on your car, chances are that your rotors will actually be thicker than when new. Why ?? It is because of the added thickness from the transfer layer material.

The vibration that is felt in the steering wheel is almost always caused by rotor thickness variation as a direct result of the caliper piston extending and retracting as it tries to follow a rotor of varying surface thickness. Thickness variation is initiated by an un even transfer layer of brake pad material on the rotor face.

Improper bed in of new brake pads and/or rotors is usually the culprit. Overheating the pad compounds can generate an uneven transfer layer as it leaves 'splotches' on the rotor face. In any case, the uneven transfer layer deposits will wear differently than the surrounding rotor material. On and on it goes...... until the the high spots and low spots can be felt in the rotor face and are severe enough to be felt in the pedal. Even less than 0.001" variation can be down right annoying.

Another common source of thickness variation is in the overheating of the rotor itself. It gets hot. Really hot. Then you rest you foot on the pedal at a stop light after hard use and where the pad was at rest, and it builds up a transfer layer in a localized area. Now, these 'hot spots' will wear more quickly, creating a thick and thin wear pattern on the rotor face.

But enough of my explaination..... everyone seems to think that rotors warp from heat.

But, following the bed instructions will cure you of the stated problems assoicated with pad/rotor bed-in and the requirements give you another good reason to take the car for a spin.......