Removed front sway bar, my impressions
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Last week I decided to remove my front sway bar to help with traction (I need lots of help right now). Here's my take on it.
Taking it out, piece of cake. A little time consuming if doing it by hand, but still less than an hour. Just bolts.
The car leans noticeably more in corners. But, rides noticeably smoother, not as stiff.
It launches a bit harder (better traction), but after the launch, it doesn't seem to help much with traction at all.
At low speeds (under 50) and normal driving, the only thing you'd notice is a better ride.
On the hwy, the car floats around, a lot. My wife actually started feeling car sick for a moment.
Braking from higher speeds quicky can be downright scary. Car wants to move around a bit.
Power sliding can be scary when the car "corrects" itself with traction. It feels more out of control.
All in all, I'm putting the bar back on. It might be nice for a quick trip to the drag strip, but I wouldn't recommend it (for safety sake) for driving around town.
Taking it out, piece of cake. A little time consuming if doing it by hand, but still less than an hour. Just bolts.
The car leans noticeably more in corners. But, rides noticeably smoother, not as stiff.
It launches a bit harder (better traction), but after the launch, it doesn't seem to help much with traction at all.
At low speeds (under 50) and normal driving, the only thing you'd notice is a better ride.
On the hwy, the car floats around, a lot. My wife actually started feeling car sick for a moment.
Braking from higher speeds quicky can be downright scary. Car wants to move around a bit.
Power sliding can be scary when the car "corrects" itself with traction. It feels more out of control.
All in all, I'm putting the bar back on. It might be nice for a quick trip to the drag strip, but I wouldn't recommend it (for safety sake) for driving around town.
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Driving without any swaybar is not a good thing. It makes the car unstable, and very very prone to oversteer. It's even worse if you need have to take evasive action.
If you are hell-bent on drag racing without the bar (which helps), then I'd suggest you do two things. The first is that you just remove one end-link at the strip. You don't need to take both off, the bar has to be connected to both control arms to work. The second is to get yourself some shocks with some decent rebound control so the car won't float and hunt around at speed as badly (because the car can't roll quickly, and is therefore more stable).
A shock like a Koni will allow you to disconnect the front bar at the strip, and if you insist, on the street, and give you a more stable platform on which to drive. I've got more than a few customers who have bought Koni's for handling (and some do, some do not have larger front bars). Some disconnect the front bars and run a fair amount of damping because they find the car is quicker to launch that way than with weak shocks and the bar hooked up. Some leave the stock bar and turn the shocks way down. Personal preference. But the payoff is at the top end of the track when the car isn't moving all over the place.
The street ride/handling from shocks like Koni's is simply a huge bonus to drag racers, adn one they find they like. I'm the other way, I like my control first and drag race more for fun, and the shocks allow me to adapt for that as well.
If you are hell-bent on drag racing without the bar (which helps), then I'd suggest you do two things. The first is that you just remove one end-link at the strip. You don't need to take both off, the bar has to be connected to both control arms to work. The second is to get yourself some shocks with some decent rebound control so the car won't float and hunt around at speed as badly (because the car can't roll quickly, and is therefore more stable).
A shock like a Koni will allow you to disconnect the front bar at the strip, and if you insist, on the street, and give you a more stable platform on which to drive. I've got more than a few customers who have bought Koni's for handling (and some do, some do not have larger front bars). Some disconnect the front bars and run a fair amount of damping because they find the car is quicker to launch that way than with weak shocks and the bar hooked up. Some leave the stock bar and turn the shocks way down. Personal preference. But the payoff is at the top end of the track when the car isn't moving all over the place.
The street ride/handling from shocks like Koni's is simply a huge bonus to drag racers, adn one they find they like. I'm the other way, I like my control first and drag race more for fun, and the shocks allow me to adapt for that as well.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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Sam
With my revalved Bilsteins from you , what do you recommend?
I only go to the 1/4 mile 1-2 times a year but would like better traction. I thought of unhooking the big ole' 35mm bar on one side but want to know about the shocks and Eibach's.
Thanks. With my new found horsepower it might be time to order a 9" from you soon.
With my revalved Bilsteins from you , what do you recommend?
I only go to the 1/4 mile 1-2 times a year but would like better traction. I thought of unhooking the big ole' 35mm bar on one side but want to know about the shocks and Eibach's.
Thanks. With my new found horsepower it might be time to order a 9" from you soon.
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You should be ok. The springs are stiffer, the shocks are firmer. Certainly you will be better off than somone with stock shocks and springs on who removes the bar.
All you can do it try. But I don't think it'll be a suprise to anyone running with no bar on cars that came with a 30mm bar at a minimum in V-8 trim will make the handling a bit wonky. Even when you are going straight, the suspension is working (which is what I try and instill in those folks who tell me they don't need anything good because they don't care about racing). Fact is the suspension is in play, all the time. Just in different ways.
All you can do it try. But I don't think it'll be a suprise to anyone running with no bar on cars that came with a 30mm bar at a minimum in V-8 trim will make the handling a bit wonky. Even when you are going straight, the suspension is working (which is what I try and instill in those folks who tell me they don't need anything good because they don't care about racing). Fact is the suspension is in play, all the time. Just in different ways.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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Sam,
Some of the straight line only people completely remove the front bar & hardware not just for weight transfer at launch, but for weight reduction (which also fractionally helps transfer) as well. I guess if they put up with gutted interiors, lousy handling on the street, deafening exhaust systems, skinnies on the front, etc. they do not mind the car dancing through the traps (as dangerous as that might be). I'm with you as far as wanting to be able to turn left and right very well at all times and am willing to give up a few 10ths in the quarter to have that ability. In fact, I use it as a bragging right, I say, "I run mid-low 12s on a road race suspension!! ".
Some of the straight line only people completely remove the front bar & hardware not just for weight transfer at launch, but for weight reduction (which also fractionally helps transfer) as well. I guess if they put up with gutted interiors, lousy handling on the street, deafening exhaust systems, skinnies on the front, etc. they do not mind the car dancing through the traps (as dangerous as that might be). I'm with you as far as wanting to be able to turn left and right very well at all times and am willing to give up a few 10ths in the quarter to have that ability. In fact, I use it as a bragging right, I say, "I run mid-low 12s on a road race suspension!! ".