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Help with LCA install!!!

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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 02:54 AM
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Default Help with LCA install!!!

I am having trouble with the driver's side lca. It is UMI non-adjustable (great piece), but the front bolt is not going in. The bracket it goes through is not lining up with the lca while in place. The bracket is fine and the lca is fine because I can get teh bolt to go through both while the lca is not in place (out of the car). Any tips? It looks like I need to move the lca towards the front of the car by about 1/4 inch and I can't figure out how to do it. Anyone else run into this?
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 04:09 AM
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Yep, they can be a pain in the a$$ if you are by yourself. If you don't have anyone available to help you push the rear towards the front of the car try using a screwdriver or something in the hole to help you pry it forward enough to get the bolt started in there. Not sure but maybe jacking up the rear a little will move it closer also???
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 07:53 AM
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without the LCA in, you should be able to move the rear end forward/backward to line it up.
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 06:05 PM
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i am having the same problem, there is a gap between the hole in the car and the hole in the lca. i cant move the rear end while it is what i used the jack the rear of the car with, i guess ill put the rear tires on ramps so i can try moving the rear end? hopefully it will move i have about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch gap.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 09:23 AM
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i have the same dam issue wtf? i used rhino ramps and the stocker goes in and out, i put a jack under the rear and nada i put the car on jack stands and nada. If you get the front on the back wont line up and vice versa who knows I called UMI today and left message..the panhard went on fine
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by tbick
i am having the same problem, there is a gap between the hole in the car and the hole in the lca. i cant move the rear end while it is what i used the jack the rear of the car with, i guess ill put the rear tires on ramps so i can try moving the rear end? hopefully it will move i have about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch gap.
Is the front of the car on the ground? If so, the car can move in relation to the rear end. Otherwise you'll have to lift the car and free the rear end. Since you only have up to 3/8" to go, perhaps the above recommendation of sticking a screw driver through and prying?

Really this procedure should not be done with the rear of the car lifted by the axle.
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 12:47 PM
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when I did my install I hooked a tow strap around the lower a-arm in the front and the rear-end and cranked away it works very well
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tbick
i am having the same problem, there is a gap between the hole in the car and the hole in the lca. i cant move the rear end while it is what i used the jack the rear of the car with, i guess ill put the rear tires on ramps so i can try moving the rear end? hopefully it will move i have about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch gap.


what?!


dude, put some jackstands under the chassis before you kill yourself! lol

since you're basicly unbolting the rear end from the car while you do the LCAs, you have to have the jackstands under the CHASSIS.

once its on jackstands, the rear can hang free on the shocks, or you can just move it on the jack...
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Old Dec 29, 2005 | 02:13 PM
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well i worked on it today and got the lca's in. the driver side one went in fine but the passenger side was the one that was a pain. i put jackstands on the rear frame and man handled the rear to move it enough to get the last bolt in. wasnt easy but its in there now.
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 06:31 AM
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A hammer capable of delivering a few love taps can be your friend when installing the bolts for the lca's.

LCA's and PHR should be installed with jackstands located on the frame and the rear end hanging free. Only do one side at a time with the LCA's. The final bolt torque of the LCA's should be done with the car on the ground (suspension loaded).

BMR has some good insturctions on their website.

Good luck and don't kill yourself.
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SmokinHot98
when I did my install I hooked a tow strap around the lower a-arm in the front and the rear-end and cranked away it works very well
I am going to try that out since there is only one of me..what a great idea...every suspension company should include a tow strap and rachet with control arm package lol
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 8GTOKLR
I am going to try that out since there is only one of me..what a great idea...every suspension company should include a tow strap and rachet with control arm package lol

honestly, if i had to do that to move the rear end, id like to figure out WHY it didnt want to move......

im not trying to be a jackass or anything, but i have been swapping these rears (3rdgen and 4thgen) since i was 15, and not once have i had that much of a problem......
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 03:51 PM
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I couldnt tell you why it was such a pain but it was and the fun thing is im doin again 2morrow
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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I put the car frame on jacks stands jacked the rear up a little pushed on the drivers side rear tire a few times and my buddy slid the front bolt in like nothing. On the passanger side didnt have to do anything both bolts went in like nothing...lock tight and torqued and the car spins tires like nada..I think the install was about 30 min, there is slight wheel hop but for crappy city streets what do you want...cant wait till stops raining and the tracks open or find nice freeway on ramp
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 08:41 PM
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Loosen the wheel bolts, jack the car up and put stands on the frames and everything will move a lot easier,....The rear shifted while you were replacing the LCA, its a pain in the *** to get it to fit back in but its possible while keeping it on rhino ramps....much easier without the wheels on
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