ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

warpped rotors maybe?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

Too funny i found this thread.

But I'll go about it in reverse since I think I know what it is.

Had Eibach/Bilstein combo with LG poly/rod end LCA's, BMR relocation brackets and Random Tech torque arm for 4 years now. Never a vibration. -1.5, 4.5 alignment.

Just installed:

Koni SA's, lower perch in front, rear isolater removed/hose mod on springs. So 3/4" drop. Stock LCA's with 1LE rubber now.

Put the stock LCA's in the lowest hole of the relocation brackets, like i had the LG arms.

Now I'm getting severe vibration right at 70mph.

It's one of 2 things. Either the LCA's need to go up one hole or back to stock location, or else the old alignment is way off and needs redone for the new suspension. I'll try the LCA's tonight, easy 10 minute job as opposed to $70 for a front end alignment. The original R/T torque arm setting was -2, so pinion angle I'm sure changed slightly due to not being lowered as far ( 3/4" now vs. 1.5" with Eibach's).

Just thought I'd share my experience.

kenkaru

ya let us know. I'm going to be putting on my brackets soon.

Shuck

I am having a vibration issue also. It is not the sound in the video that was posted but a more constant sound. Last weekend at the track I noticed a little vibration at 80mph and on. After I was done I seen a little smoke coming from the rear of the engine and heard a drip landing on the exhaust. I Jack it up today and the underneath side of my car is covered in transmission fluid.

About 8 months ago I got my new suspension on so I took it out and made some high speed runs up to 140-145mph and bent or warped my driveshaft. I got an aluminum one and it fixed the vibration. I noticed even after I replaced the driveshaft and output shaft seal when I would get on the gas fluid would leak out slowly. So I relplaced it again incase I didn't get is in there good enough last time.

So today it looks like fluid is coming from the seal I have replaced twice!!!!!!!!!! I am thinking maybe my output shaft seal is bent or something, because I had my car up on jackstands with the rear wheels off for safety and took my car up to 90mph and there was a little vibration, I pushed in the clutch and the vibration didn't go away. I think tomorrow after class I may take the drive shaft out and spin it up to see what happens.

I am thinking I might have bent my output shaft when I bent my driveshaft. I hope that is not it because being a student I can't afford to have the tranny rebuilt. I am also going to check the pinion angle tomorrw because with my new suspension it lowered it almost two inches. I will post my results.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

it might be the bushing that is behind the seal.......i believe that if that is worn, then a new seal won't stop the leaking...

my car was lowered 2" when i bought it a few years ago, but i didn't get the vibration until i put a high stall converter in........i finally got an adjustable torque arm, but still had the vibration .....after that i replaced the steel ds with an aluminum one and replaced the entire tailshaft housing....the vibration is pretty much gone, what is left i'm pretty sure is from the tc and possibly a flexplate that may be out of balance.....

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

i have one also but only on decell and in neutral and at 55+

i had a vibe when i had the stock rear and old gs-c tires
new 9" on the gs-c ---- i think one roller bearing is missing form the u-joint, but eather way i still have the same vibe form before

same as above but with a new set of stockers with M/T ET streeets--- vibe 100% gone

put the rims with the gs-c back on and vibes are back

i get a set of used tireson teh same stock rims vibes still their

get a set of new tires on stock rims vibe still their

put new tires on teh front and the not as new but 4mo on the back still have a vibe

rotate the ds 180* at the yoke still have it.

gmpower

iTrader: (-1)

im not a big car tech, but i have i a question for a post you made a while back for vehicle vibration. i seen that the flexplate fixed your problem. is your car an a4 or m6? im having the vibration problem like alot of other people but when im dirvng around at any speed and i can feel a vibration from the under the shifter console like something is spinning but grinding somewhere it can be felt on both the drivers and passanger side. and when im driving about 80 and hit it to 100+ and let go i feel that same vibration grinding until i let off. is this some of this anything like what you felt on your car?

thanks in advance

sweetask1ng

iTrader: (2)

mine vibrated because of warped rotors =)

5.7LoFuN

iTrader: (1)

bringing this thread back from the dead.....frustration continues. After throwing more money at my car i still have the same damn vibration i always had.

I had the rear end rebuilt with all new bearings and a different set of gears. I went from 2.73 to 3.42 in my car and the vibration got worse. I thought for sure that the drive shaft was the culprit since it was spinning faster now and the vibration increase. I just got a new adj. torque arm and had the pinion angle set at -1* thought this might be part of the problem since as mentioned earlier my car is lowered so i thought it might be off. Didn't help a bit.... So I went and purchased an aluminum drive shaft and ditched the factory steel one thinking this had to be the problem, but after installing the brand new drive shaft which was balanced and everything the problem still exists. I literally have no idea what to check next or where to go from here.

The interesting thing is while im cruising at high speeds it is vibrating but when i let off the accelerator and let the car naturally slow down ( NOT hitting the brakes) the vibration get worse ????

So anyone have any suggestions on what to check out next ?

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

Did you change your u-joints? Most commonly it's vibration from the u-joints at high speeds.

trans-am nut

Guess I'll join the club too, vibs start at 60 worsen at 65 and go away at 70. At any speed I hear the wah wah wah, sounds like the back of the car. vibs in wheel and seat. stock suspension. basically a lid, 42 grand on the clock

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

U-joints and check pinion angle if you have a adjustable torque arm.

nick_4.8sierra

iTrader: (2)

There is alot of yall with vibration problems.. that sucks

5.7LoFuN

iTrader: (1)

its a brand new driveshaft

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

Mine does it from 60-70. BAD @ 65. My wheels are out of true. My steering wheels shakes too. It started right after i got my wheels. I eliminated all other possibilities. Odd how it would just happen overnight. Has to be the wheels.

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

Let me guess, When you hit the brakes.

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

I would check the following u-joints, back lash on ring and pinion, cracks or loose tailshaft, pinion angle, and balance on driveshaft.

camarokid94

iTrader: (2)

wow anyone come up with an answer. cause mine is horrible.
i noticed mine after my new steel DS. at the same time i did a SPEC3 clutch with my old ALUM flywheel i had been useing but had a new surface put on it. after the spec and DS i went to break the clutchin and noticed the vibration from 70up it was slight but has gotten worse. that SPEC3 failed after 1k miles 742 were break in by the way. so i put my old fly and stock cutch back it to drive it while i sent the clucth back. SPEC did nothing and i ended up with a centerforce 12in. and had the alum fly resurfaced again. so if eliminate things the only thing it can be is the DS. its not RPM related its wheel speed sooo.....? i guess ill take it out and have it checked?

i just got doen takin the 9in all apart all good. check all driveline angles all ok
it all started with the steel DS


GOT IT !!!!!!
rechecked the working angles and all for the 10th time. this time instead for kinda thinking i could tell what the front yoke was at i built a bracket that i could hold on the U-joint cap and then my buddie could measure the bracket for degrees. did the same in back and i ended up haveing to but about a 3/8in spacer under the tranny mount and adjusted the rear i got both to a working angle of 1 degree. went for a drive smooths as a babies butt. i stilll get a little gear while ( wheni had it apart i went from .010-.011 backlash to .0075. ) so i took the front TQ arm mount off (SPOHN) and put some dynomatt on the bottom of the body and reinstalled the front mount. i will drive it today and let ya know if the noise is gone.