Racehead

Wilwood makes a 6 piston caliper, but they're not well thought of by the people who have bought them. I've read a few reports that their own 4 piston calipers work better than their 6 piston calipers do ?! Anyway Wilwoods in general are just not of the same quality as the others.

When did Movit start making their own calipers ? I know a guy with a Movit kit ( 3+ years old ) and they are the Porsche/Brembo calipers like the Prospeed ( now defunct ) kits are.

Pelle75

I think it was 1-2 years ago I'm not sure.

Pelle75

I will check with MOVIT

trj20

Just curious,

What specifically was not liked about the wilwood brakes? Stopping power? Pedal Feel? something else?

A braking system is just that. A system. If the hydraulic computations are wrong you can spend mega dollars for nothing. Its like your engine. If you install a wild, high lift cam with the wrong induction system, you may have taken a step backwards. We design brake systems that are application specific and ready to bolt on. And we also try to build the most cost effective systems as well. Whatever brand you go with treat it like a system and temper the "bigger is better" other than the bling factor, which we have some very modern racing calipers that will definately attract attention if that is your goal. However as we treat everything as a system, the best calipers we offer aren't recommended as a bolt on only.

If you need any help with a combination for your car that includes all of the hydraulic computation, master cylinder requirements, and wheel/ tire combination limitations if any, I'd be happy to point you in the right direction.

Ted Johnson
racingbrakesolutions@***.net

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I'm running a Wilwood 6 piston kit from Precision brakes (sponsor here) and it has been outstanding. I have no complaints about the Wilwoods at all, and I did drive the car in competition this year (even won the championship in my autocross class). I've turned the rotors purple from heat, but the system has been perfect and never let me down.

It's a great kit.

trj20

I'm an SCCA racer. I am working with Precision Brakes Company for race car applications and now for street car applications. With my backround in racing and theirs in brake systems we have teamed up to clear up the voodoo behind brake systems. As we work together we have developed brake systems that fill the void of buying brake components and then trying to make them work as well as bolt on and ready to go. They draw the systems up on paper and we test them to make sure they are right, making adjustments if any to make them perfect for the racers. Precision Brakes is great to work with. And when it comes to cost effective, they bend over backwards with us racers. Group buy pricing really helps the pocketbook. As they made me a direct contact for scca racers I can help with organizing group buys as well.

Ted Johnson
racingbrakesolutions@***.net

Pelle75

MOVIT can offer 342x34 6K, 370x35 6K and 396x36 6K kit (fits perfect under 20" wheels)

Some more pictures




Send me a PM for a offer.

GrnDragon

iTrader: (4)

I just ordered a complete set of brakes for my 95 TA from Precision Brakes. They were a little more than I wanted to spend but to get 15" 6-pistons in the front and 14" 4-pistons in the rear (with an external Parking Brake) I knew it would be expensive. The only downfall is the wait time for this kit (because it is custom) 6-8 weeks. I hope everything works as well as their "designed" kits, otherwise I might be wasting many thousands of dollars for looks with no preformance. Once I get my new wheels 19x9.5 (Front) and 20x12.5 (rears) it will look sweet!!!

trj20

If the highest end system is what you seek, then you need to consider Wilwoods STR caliper. Not many people realize Wilwoods high end racing brake systems. This is the very latest technology. A six piston design, with 1.62 1.25 1.25 pistons which also features state of the art T2 Thermlock Pistons which help tremendously in keeping heat transfer out of the caliper body to prevent brake fluid from boiling.. This is the caliper the top racing teams use. A system could also be built with 1.62 thick rotors. Enormous heat dissapation qualities which would blow your mind on how much mass there is to a rotor this thick. As always we would map out the proper hydraulic requirements to make this setup work with your car as well as bolt right up. Wheel and tire combinations will need to be considered as part of fitment with the best brake system available. It will be the most eye appealing setup you could imagine. Is it necessary for a street car? Not really, but this would be the ultimate bling brake system for the street car and would eliminate all brake issues with any race car application.

You can email me below for more details on this ultimate brakes system or any other questions on brakes to the link below.

Ted Johnson
racingbrakesolutions@***.net

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

The Thermolock pistons are nice, I'm running them in my SL-6 calipers.

trj20

I wouldn't race without them.

Ted
racingbrakesolutions@***.net

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Sending you a PM right away.

trj20

In racing or hi performance driving the key element to control is heat. As the braking components get hot its important to have the option of dynamic hat and rotors. More commonly known as "floating rotors" to allow for heat expansion at the attachment points of the hat and rotor. This allows for longer rotor life as it relieves some of the heat expansion related stress that promotes cracking and warping of your rotors. It also helps keep a consistant brake pedal for a longer duration. Make sure if your race/street car is going to be used on road race tracks frequently, that this is an option for yourself. It will make your track day the best it can be without brake problems.

Ted Johnson
racingbrakesolutions@***.net

roy

Interesting thread. Guidos house of bRakes(Movit) originally put my kit on back in 2000. I get all my consumables from the local P-Car Hof. There are a lot of good kits out there just ask the hard questions.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Heres your porsche rotors on a porsche

blackstang3o2

what about the baer sport kit with just 2 piston calipers it sells for around 800.00 thats what i was thinking about. I dont have the big money just for brakes so i got to spread my cash evenly.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

When you want big brakes, without spending big money, the C5 upgrade is the best choice.

trj20

What if you could have a full race brake setup with 4 piston calipers 12.19 inch/ 1.25 rotors ready to bolt on AND still fit inside 16 inch wheels for any pony car mustang/camaro/firebird? The price is marginally more expensive than the c5 setup which will require a 17 inch wheel? You don't need the super expensive setups unless you are full on racing. As far as the pbr calipers are concerned, in full race conditions they spread open from heat fatigue and have caused brake failures in the pony car class I race in. Brake pad wear is terrible as we could only use half a brake pad before we threw it away. We have upgraded to 4 piston setups (our rules dictate only 4 pistons) and will be happy never to mess with a pbr again in race conditions.

racingbrakesolutions@***.net

LastBlack02SS

iTrader: (21)

Buy the new Zo6 brakes. Can't they be made to work and aren't they under a G for them? Correct me if i'm wrong but i thought they were a major quality brake setup.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Ted, you were doing great until this part:


Slots don't do anything to cool the rotor, and they surely don't prevent cracks. Since they remove mass, it could be argued that they might increase the temps of the rotor. And, I've seen several slotted rotors that have cracked right at the slot (a stress riser is created there and cast iron doesn't like stress risers). Now, we can get into the "NASCAR" style slots, which are not anything like our standard radial pattern slots on our "blingy" street rotors (the standard slot format that everyone seems to use). And we can discuss the fact that a slotted rotor should not be slotted clear off of the edge of the disc (if it is, it will almost be guarenteed to crack at the disc edge of a slot) and the fact that they should be cut with a ball end mill and be round in the bottom of the slot (and on each end where the slot starts and stops) and not have "corners" in the bottom (like using a cylinder shaped bit would leave), etc.

Yes, I'm nit picking a bit, but I feel that you and Precision Brakes have a lot to offer and I'd hate for that to get lost due to a few incorrect (or slightly misleading) statements. I'll be your best friend around here if you have your facts straight, but, I'll also try my best to make sure those facts stay straight. However, if you have scientific information that can be supported that is contrary to this, I'd be more than glad to look at it and discuss it. I'm always interested in learning new things. But, my experience and all information thus far is all contrary to your statement (as are statements from many major brake manufacturers). Again, I'm not being hard on you, but we've (Mitchntx, Roy, I and many others) have gone to great lengths to get people past the "drilled/slotted rotors make my car stop sooooooo much better because they are soooooooo high tech and race cars use (used) them" and explain why they are driveway jewlery (slots can be beneficial at an increased risk of cracking of the disc) that I'd hate for that to become undone now.

We tried to prove that the Porsche rotors were cast with holes (someone on another board (who owns a brake company) put out an offer of cash for proof that they were cast with holes, all we could find were pictures of smooth molds and nothing to indicate that they are cast with holes, and the information from various Porsche "sources" was also not able to substantiate that they were cast with holes. It appears to be a marketing myth) and couldn't. Also, as already shown, the Porsche rotors crack just like most others (maybe not as easily, but that's a function of the thickness of the cheeks and the overall design). One thing that you'll see on Porsche or similar (high quailty) drilled rotors is that they will drill 1/2 way through the cooling vein in the rotor. This helps to reduce the possibility of cracking due to the additional mass of the vein and by removing the "edges" of the inside of the holes, where cracks can form.

Stop safely!