Hotpart.com triangular subframe connectors....(too cheap?)
triangular subframe connectors....(too cheap?) this things any good? anyone use them b4?
ive found them for 169 shipped....
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Camaro- Flat Tube Subframe Connectors Triangular Style
F-BODY (camaro - firebird) - 1993-2002 Camaro / Firebird
ive found them for 169 shipped....
Non sponsor contact info
Camaro- Flat Tube Subframe Connectors Triangular Style
F-BODY (camaro - firebird) - 1993-2002 Camaro / Firebird
This is the first thing that should be done on uni-body vehicles, even if you do not plan to increase the performance of the engine, is the installation of subframe connectors! Connectors assist in maintaining the integrity of the vehicle. Take a close look at any unibody car that has been run hard. The doors don't close quite right, T-tops don’t line up and the alignment shop has trouble getting the car to drive straight. If you want your car to remain rattle free and you want to get the most out of other chassis and engine mods, you have to connect the front and rear frame sections with something stronger than sheet metal. Sub-frame connectors are an absolute requirement for all types of driving.
A necessity for any performance minded builder.
Stops power robbing chassis flex.
Improves responsiveness & control.
Shaped to hug the floor pan of your vehicle for maximum ground clearance.
Doubles as a Jacking Rail.
Powder-coated to prevent corrosion.
Available for hardtop.
Weld-in only design is far superior and stronger than bolt-in styles.
A necessity for any performance minded builder.
Stops power robbing chassis flex.
Improves responsiveness & control.
Shaped to hug the floor pan of your vehicle for maximum ground clearance.
Doubles as a Jacking Rail.
Powder-coated to prevent corrosion.
Available for hardtop.
Weld-in only design is far superior and stronger than bolt-in styles.
Last edited by STANG KILLA SS 2; Feb 22, 2006 at 11:06 AM.
I have used simlar ones, and as far as what is stated in the quote, it's just more of the SFC propaganda. Other than probably offering a "longer" jacking point, the rest is just a bunch of unsubstantiated info causing much paranoia. If you really need some that are really quality, I'd say look at UMI.
Thanks Foxxton
Our SFC's are priced a bit more but the difference is noticeable in appearance and build. We have spent many hours designing our item to fit as tight as possible against the floor with out reducing ground clearance. If you look closely at out pictures will notice how each cross brace is actually bent to follow the floor contour rather then a straight shot reducing clearance.
Our main reason for building the 3-Point set-up was to work with our tunnel brace mounted torque arm. This helps to take the stress of the floor and spread it across the SFC's themselfs.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
Our SFC's are priced a bit more but the difference is noticeable in appearance and build. We have spent many hours designing our item to fit as tight as possible against the floor with out reducing ground clearance. If you look closely at out pictures will notice how each cross brace is actually bent to follow the floor contour rather then a straight shot reducing clearance.
Our main reason for building the 3-Point set-up was to work with our tunnel brace mounted torque arm. This helps to take the stress of the floor and spread it across the SFC's themselfs.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS 2
yeah ive decided to go with a UMI... but cant decide tubular or boxed(2 pt) 
Both are very nice set-ups. The boxed style is slightly more rigid but the tubular will take all the abuse you can put to them. The benefits of the tubular would be they are 4lbs. lighter and are offered in a bolt-in style as well if welding is not acessible. Either version will cause no ground clearance issues, the boxed style will hang below the pinch under the door approx. 3/8" while the tubulars tuck up very tight and can not be seen unless you actually bend over and look.
If I can help anymore please ask. Thanks!
Ryan
