KAOS

iTrader: (5)

i have seen some one on here make their own chromoly lcas. just wondering who it was. he quoted me a price and it seems really good!!

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

Pick some up from a sponsor. You can get them for about $100.00.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

They are cheap enough, buy a set from a reputable co. I know Kelliente sp? made her own.

smoknta

Here are some pics of the ones I made. The ended up weighing in at 3 lbs a piece.

KAOS

iTrader: (5)

those chromoly? the ones that smoknta made, if they are chromoly are 300 a set at umi!

chipz

wow nice.

Charging TA

There used to be a write-up to making everything yourself, Ive been meaning to find it, saw it last about a year ago... Everything from where to buy the materials, building it, etc...

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

I went with wolf in my car. They are a sponsor ------------>

LS1TechRulez

iTrader: (1)

I would be interested in that.

Charging TA

Yeah Ive been trying to search for it, thought it was on FS but search doesnt bring it up... Might have been on here though... Ill keep searching, someone has to remember it, it was almost exactly one year ago.

YES!!!! I found it: http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/L...minumLCAs.html

Enjoy.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about chromoly ones, however there is a write up for using components for the Aluminium ones using Coleman Racing Products arms. The only thing you'd have to do is to substitute the Aluminium for arms fabbed from Chromoly, though the Coleman arms are much more beefy than what urban legends will have.

The Rod Ends will be the critical components of the arms that will be made. It's important to use ones that are similar to QA1 XMR/XML-12's, with a self-lubricating race that has nearly zero deflection or zero bind.

EDIT: Glad that someone found that, since the author of that page is a member over @ www.frrax.com.

On the quality of strength that he mentions, he is indeed correct about it's strength, since I have both ran and tested them myself.

One alternative to the "dust/debris boots" is just to periodically spray them with Super Lube brand cleaner with PTFE. The reasons I opted for this is due to the fact that a rep from the rod end manufacturer did mention that the rod ends were designed to self-lubricate/self-clean, so any boot could trap excessive debris and/or moisture that may be counter productive to the bearing's race life (race referring to the area between the bearing and inner sleeve and not an actual race activity), though it still could be an option for those who live in very moist climates like the author does.

smoknta

Yes they are chromemoly tubing. They are 1 1/4X0.95. I also made a panhard rod to match. I have not made any passes on them. So we'll find out this season how well they perform.

LS1TechRulez

iTrader: (1)

sweet

KAOS

iTrader: (5)

i like that rubber bushing mount he had! still adjustable and i guarentee that there would be no road noise ever with that! just dont know where he got it.

dailydriver

Yeah, that is sweet! I wonder how he fabbed that deal? That would convince me to go back to rod ends in the LCAs & PHB.

smoknta

Why is everyone thinking chromemoly is going to break on a LCA. Look how many people use the same size tubing for a roll cage and that is meant to save your life in a crash. Granted it does take the constant beating that a LCA would on launch, but it is plenty strong.

KAOS

iTrader: (5)

i have talked to that place he got the allminum one and they said the steel is just slightly heavier. ounzes he said. i have had some experiecne with alluminum lcas and screwing them in and out it screws up the threads

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Hmm. Adjusted mine, several times, and it never happened, plus I beat the hell out of mine in hard cornering. Actually, the differences in the weight are much more dramatic as I weighed them myselves. Chromium molybenum will usually weigh ~1lbs. more, while a mild steel tubular can weigh up to ~2lbs. more than the stock LCA.

Neither chromium molybenum or aluminium 6061-T6 LCA's will not "break" or "strip", that is unless you absolutely are hell bent on doing it thus taking a drill and stripping the threading out or cutting the things in half. The page author does indeed know what he's doing and what he's talking about. Most of the load bearing is taken into the rod ends themselves, so it is imperative that a quality rod end is used (plus quality rod ends last longer, provided you don't live in a very wet climate).

I say, look here, perform a search on LCA's:

www.frrax.com (WARNING: absolutely perform an extensive search there before blindly posting, or excessive flaming will lead to much smoke). There are actually a couple of pertinent threads that are currently ttt.

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=4086
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=6781

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

http://www.lefthanderchassis.com/pdf/Ch2-2.pdf

go to page 48 of the catalogue and it's listed toward the top (pg. 20 in the PDF page count itslef).

Bear in mind that also in jon's instructions and the frrax thread itself, they mention that you must us a certain sized tubing by slicing and inserting inside the rubber bushing's steel inner sleeve in order to retain use fo the stock bolts and the stock mounting point.

EDIT: As far as the rod end to LCA mounting spacers are concerned, you could contact Cal and see if he would be willing to fab some aluminium spacers for his requested price.

KAOS

iTrader: (5)

my old lcas were were made from some body on the board and he sold them on ebay, i took them to the track and on the way home they made some of the worst noises, sounded like my rear was about to fall out. and when i loosened the jam nut the rod end was wobbly, like i said i cant verify the quality of the product. and two the rod ends may have been cheap im not really sure but i appreciate the feed back. i think im goin to try this out seems to be a good setup