ls14pwr

iTrader: (1)

Today i took off my rear rotors and calpiers. I put everything back together and torques the wheels down to about 120 ft pounds, there c5 18"s. Went for a test drive and everything was fine down the street till i gave it hell and when i hit about 80 this horriable skreeching came form my passanger side rear brake. I got home looked at it adn it looked fine so i went out again.

This time I got some skreetching Turnig around corners and especially when i drive it up to 40. Got back home my driver side rotor is hot but i can keep my hand on it , but the pass side rotor is fraeakin blazin hot. What could this be???? Please help this is my dd. I need it back on the road asap. Thanx

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I had a similar problem when I put on new pads a couple of years ago. One side was screeching and the rotor was a couple of hundred degrees. I had a seized caliper guide pin. It had seized in a compressed state and was causing the pad to rub continuously due to the new, thicker pads.

120ft-lbs seems a little stiff. Is that what is recommended for those wheels?

ls14pwr

iTrader: (1)

Thats the thing i dont know what to tq them down to.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Don't know about your hot rotor problem, but the torque spec for the lug nuts is 100 lb/ft.

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

The hot rotor could be due to a sticking caliper, were the pads worn or did you smell burning breaks at all?

ls14pwr

iTrader: (1)

OK so I took off the capliper and the rotor again and here is what i have got. Earlier when i originally took off the rotors I was a COMPLEATE DUMB *** and forgot to take off the e-break , yea yea yea you can laugh now. So as you can guess i had a bitch of a time beatin the **** out of the rotors to get them off. Well i finally released the break and off they came.

So now after taking the rotor off againe i found this.



This part fell off



This is what is left on my axle



So Im sure that was what my prob was, but now my new question is can i drive it if i put it back together? Will i have any probs if i still use the e- break with one e-break pad, and how hard is this to fix? Thanx in advance.

Camaro_SS

iTrader: (1)

The metal thing at the top of your inner plate is a guide brace; the cylindrical thing at the bottom is the "BRAKE" piston. It's cable actuated, so I wouldn't recommend using your e-brake until you replace the rt. side drums. The pads don't appear to be broken, you should be able to put them back into place. Make sure the tabs at the open end of the pads fit inside the slots on either side of the piston! Replace your brake disc, then SLIGHTLY engage the e-brake lever until there is a hint of drag on the disc as you rotate it. This will re-adjust the tension equally between both wheels. The e-brake is self-adjusting. Good luck!