ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

had my stock rotors turned (still within spec) and put on new performance friction carbon metallic pads. my pads were gone so the piston was almost fully extended. and the master cylinder was topped off. so when i pushed the calipers back in i forgot to remove some fluid or pull the cap off. well it forced its way out and made a mess. i thought nothing of it but after driving the car to work the next day i noticed that my braking was less than desireable. i had to give much more pedal effort to get the car to stop. almost panic like when stopping from a decent rate of speed. kind of like they werent gripping. well i then get out and look at them and this is what they look like.


the pass side isnt as bad.

wtf is going on here? why are they doing this? is it possible the pads became contaminated during install? i thought my hands were pretty clean......

ws6formula98

iTrader: (12)

I will remove the pads and check them.. and was this on both sides?

Dans2000SS

Did you do the recommended pad break in? I know you will have reduced braking until the pads are seated properly.

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

Did you do your change like this?
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm

If so, did you do bed in to something like the manufacturer's suggestions:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

Bear in mind that if you did the above correctly, you'd still might have to perform a simple rebuild, something around what this document suggests:
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...er_rebuild.htm

EDIT: As usual, I advise to anyone to retrace your steps in order to discover what really is wrong before getting knee deep into something that wasn't really that necessary to being with, however it wouldn't hurt to do a rebuild after lots of mileage to possibly avoid much more serious consequences later.

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

car only has 14k on it and this is the first time the brakes have ever been off. when i pushed the pistons back in i did one at a time as i didnt have the tools to do them both at once. i held the one still with a c clamp and used my disc brake tool to slowly push the other in. the drivers side has the more prevelant black marks but they car is not pulling during braking. i have done many brake jobs on my lt1 camaro and never had to bed them in. they always worked right away. im not saying i wasnt supposed to but i never had to. also noticed alot of brake dust after the first couple days. i think im going to take it back apart and scuff up the rotors and pads and see if that helps. any other ideas?

Foxxtron

iTrader: (1)

The brakes should almost immediately regardless of properly bedding in or not but the reason behind properly bedding them in is to transfer a gradual and nearly even surface layer of pad material to the rotor in order to avoid excessive rounout. The excessive runout is a not only responsible for the extreme vibration felt in the wheels but also excessive heat spots caused through uneven bedding. Those spots definitely appear to be heat spots caused through uneven bedding, however the brake caliper slide pins do need to be checked as well, since the stock calipers are sliding calipers.

Some other things to remember is frequently check your brake fluid, bleed it periodically, and replace it at least every 1 to 2 years (depending on driver habits). you might also try to bleed the system to see if there are any air bubbles trapped (though I highly doubt it). Also, properly torque the lug nuts down to 95-100lbs/ft. upon remounting the wheel and 25 to 50 miles afterwards, otherwise you'll get some serious pad knockback.