GoldenBird

Now that it's warming up I want to replace my brakes for a couple reasons. First off, it's obvious my front pads are starting to get down there. I've had the car for 15,000 miles and never had to touch them. I bought the car at 20k from a Chevy dealership, so I'm guessing if anything they changed the front pads before selling it and the rest is totally original. Additionally, I just picked up some rims that are a lot more "open" than the stockers, and I know whats on there is going to look like total garbage behind the new wheels. I also want painted calipers.
After reading a lot of threads, especially Strano's (which I'll note it's awesome to have a guy here who knows his stuff, sells the products, could sell you 100's and 100's of dollar of products, yet recommends inexpensive stuff if it gets the job done for your application)....I feel like a solid stock upgrade for me would be the PBR MetalMasters. I'm leaning toward Brembo rotors but it also seems like the Duralast is a decent bet. Any opinions on which is more durable and less likely to warp?
Also, as far as calipers....all my searches came back mainly people showing off their painted ones or asking how to do it, or upgrading to Corvette ones. I need better info....at what kinda mileage are these generally in need of replacing? Like I said I do intend to paint mine too, so I'm unsure if it makes sense to start with new ones as opposed to degreasing the old ones and then maybe not having them last that long anyway. I couldn't find much info on good upgrades that weren't overkill. Also, everyone says "use good fluid", but don't offer much insight into which ones so suggestions would be great. Is there anything else I should be replacing while I'm at it? Thanks.

GR33N GoblinM6

iTrader: (14)

Hawk HPS pads.. Completly flush your brake fluid with some Super Blue ATE fluid... have your rotors turned, awesome street braking.. of course you can go more performance with race pads..

GoldenBird

Yeah, race pads aren't really necessary. It's a lid/catback car right now and probably won't see much more. You think getting the rotors turned is a better bet than replacement with one of the ones I mentioned?

J. Brown

replace the rotors with at least Brembo blanks...........unless you are looking for some bling........then find a decent pair of cross drilled. Brembo blanks are twice the rotor the stock rotors are for half the price.......

peterlawl84

iTrader: (12)

i was goign to go with the brembo rotors but i decided to go with some baer ones at the advice of the owner of the shop and couldnt be more happy. i was afraid of them warping since i warped my stock ones and a set of powerslot ones. but so far these handle the abuse and have had no problems.
as far as the calipers, i kept the stock ones and have about 77G miles on the car and they are holding up fine. I was considering getting the calipers from baer at the same time but didnt want to spend the money.

J. Brown

you can't go wrong with the baer rotors...........

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Race compounds don't stop as well when they're not hot. I wouldn't recommend them on the street. For a street pad, Metalmasters or Hawk HP in the front and stock in rear, or HP + in front and HPS in rear. HP+ will dust more. Opinions will vary.

From what I've read on rotors, cross-drilling is cosmetic because pads no longer need to vent gases. I've never warped a rotor - stock, Powerslot, or Brembo's.

Unless you have problems with unusual pad wear, I'd leave the stock calipers. Just be sure to keep the guide pins lubricated.

Super ATE is very good fluid for it's cost. Plus it comes in two different colors, blue and amber, so it's easy to see when flushing is complete.

Dom

iTrader: (2)

What's the flushing order? I know it's back to front, but forgot which sides first.

VIP1

Flushing order goes by distance from Master Cylinder:
1. Rear Passenger
2. Rear Driver
3. Front Passenger
4. Front Driver