Car is putting down around 400 to the wheels, and it is a DD. Which TA is best for me, price does factor as I don't have a whole bunch saved up for mods right now. Isn't there one that doesn't mount directly to the rear? Which is gonna take the most stress off of the rear end, I am still on my stock 10 bolt. Car is not and will never be lowered BTW. Thanks

 

Also do I need an adjustable or non-adjustable?

 

up up up

 

A torque arm HAS to mount to the rear end, thats what its for. Its best to get one that DOESNT bolt to the back of the transmission though. Im not an expert, so i wont make any suggestions.

 

Hello,

Since the vehicle is not lowered and you do not plan on lowering it then a non-adjustable torque arm would do the trick and will save you a few dollars. I always recommend this set-up for the vehicle that is driven on the street a lot, not raced often and driver doesn't have time or care to mess with adjusting. It will work excellent at the race track however it allows for no additional adjustments.

http://www.umiperformance.com/2206.aspx

A adjustable torque arm will allow you adjust the driveline angle. If you are looking for the best possible traction from the vehicle then I highly recommend a torque arm that is adjustable.

http://www.umiperformance.com/2205.aspx

The (2) arms below remove the torque arm off the transmission and bolt into the tunnel area. They require no drilling or welding, these set-ups are a direct bolt on. The tunnel mounted torque arms are very popular and work excellent. If you are very into racing and looking for the best possible set-up this is the way to go.

http://www.umiperformance.com/2200.aspx
http://www.umiperformance.com/2202.aspx

If you need help let me know and I will be glad too

Ryan

 

I went with a UMI Tunnel brace torque arm. Just thought I would toss that in here. Now all I have to do is wait for it to show up.

 

I notice that the products descriptions warn that chrome moly is for real racers only, why? Does chrome moly live less, or dies sooner due to metal fatige than stock?

Also, for a daily driver that might only go to the track twice a month at the most and would probably go 11.8 at the quickest over its lifetime what would be best?

 

Chromoly is stronger and lighter than mild steel and will last. I myself buy chromoly parts to help save weight and for strength.

 

I like Spohn's torque arms over BMR anyday.