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Rotor / caliper install

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Old May 9, 2006 | 10:25 PM
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Default Rotor / caliper install

Well about two weeks ago I decided to put on my drilled/slotted rotors from a recent group purchace. The right front had more wear than any of the other pads. I went on with the install anyway. I painted calipers , installed blead. Went for a ride and my right front was rubbing. I thought the caliper was not realeasing all of the way. Bought rebuilt caliper panted installed. Same thing. I took apart looks like the rotor isnt right or the bracket is not? I disassembled everything to check. Has anyone had this problem? I did a search and someone else also may have had an issue similar. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...aliper+rubbing

My guess is I had a pre existing problem but I am not sure. Could I have lost a spacer or something?
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Old May 10, 2006 | 08:59 AM
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Anyone? I do not know what to try next. Could something be bent. I hit a tire on my right side a few thousand miles ago. As I said all pads were about half way worn except right front. It was almost gone on inside. Could the bracket be bent? Could the rotor be out of spec?
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Old May 10, 2006 | 09:17 AM
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Did you lube the caliper pins and make sure they moved freely?
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Old May 10, 2006 | 05:46 PM
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ummm no. I will search for this but if you have any info....
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Old May 10, 2006 | 06:06 PM
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The caliper bolts thread into the glide pins. Once you've removed the caliper. grab onto the pin and try to move it in and out. It should move around pretty easy. If it's stiff or frozen, it will need to be removed. If it has to be replaced you can get a kit at the part store for about 10 bucks a side. It should include two new bolts and glide pins.
Hope this helps.
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Old May 10, 2006 | 07:37 PM
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Thanks alot man, I will check it out.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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One of the bolts was frozen up. The dust boot on bottom was ripped. I guess that allowed dirt to enter and absorb the grease. Of course I broke the bolt head trying to get it out. I ordered a new bracket, caliper pin kit, and dustboot kit. Now that I know what is wrong I can remove all this to sell. I am doing the front C5 conversion with ZO6 calipers front and back.
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Old May 14, 2006 | 07:02 PM
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omg i have the same problem can u tell exactly what u did please the only difference is that my passenger front is doing the "rubbing" like its not releasing please post up havent figured it out in about a week
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Old May 17, 2006 | 06:03 PM
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It was not easy ended up costing me $92.00 for the bracket, 25.00 for the dust boots and caiper pin kits. Note to myself>: always inspect dust boots. Anyway, ordered my ZO6 calipers brake pads and front rotors today. I will be ordering conversion brackets soon. I guess UMI? I will be selling my Hawk pads (front and rear) and front rotors (recent group purchase) soon if anyone is interested. I only drive my car about 100 miles per month. So far 0 miles on pads and rotors but I will be testing out tomorrow just to make sure everything is ok. May be selling front calipers as well, one is new. One note>: If tour caliper pin ever freezes up do not try to twist it out with force. Heat with torch or it may break off
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Old May 18, 2006 | 07:02 AM
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Ya I've talked with people who have just slapped on some new pads without doing any maintenance to the glide pins. As you know that can be an expensive mistake.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 11:32 AM
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FYI ...

I just bought a pair of "loaded" reman calipers from Autozone for $120 ... $60 each.

Comes with reman calipers, abutment brackets, new guide pins and brake pads.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 10:48 PM
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I just bought C5 front and rear calipers, pads, and Durastop (GM) drilled and slotted rotors. I am buying conversion brackets soon. This car sits most of the time so no big deal in between unless my other car goes down. I could not afford the brake system I wanted, but brakes are not going to make me go faster.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by WS.6#384
This car sits most of the time so no big deal in between unless my other car goes down. I could not afford the brake system I wanted, but brakes are not going to make me go faster.
With what you've mentioned so far, there will be practically no braking improvements with spending more money in areas of braking that cannot yield significant improvements. Your biggest upgrades in stopping power will (or practically anybody who doesn't do serious AX or RR) will be from the pads and upgraded fluid, and not much with the rotor itself (yes, enlarging rotor diameter, cross-drills/slots/dimples/etc., cryoing, fancy platings and/or coatings, and even psuedo hats won't really yield any significant gains and possibly hurt performance as well). Even what you will install will pretty much be way more than enough.

Last edited by Foxxtron; May 18, 2006 at 11:38 PM.
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Old May 19, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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The C5 rotor yields no braking improvement? What are your ideas on the C5 upgrade with Hawk pads?
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Old May 19, 2006 | 09:56 PM
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As mentioned, the Hawk Pads and fresh, upgraded brake fluid will be what's mostly responsible for a "harder feel" when braking after you upgrade (provided you bed them in carefully). I'm basing this off of your earlier statement of your vehicle being an occasional daily driver, and not an AX car, or even a part-time open tracker.

I too had a C5 front upgrade, when trying between my stock f-body brakes, when switching back and forth with both systems on my street vehicle using Hawk HPS's and good brake fluid, the differences in "feel" and most importantly braking distances were negligible (and not to forget using sperarate sets of identical tyres for each brake system, and testing on seperate days in each system with each day having nearly identical weather conditions, all of this on the same test strip).
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