let master cylinder run dry....will I need a Tech 2??
05-11-2006, 10:59 AM
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let master cylinder run dry....will I need a Tech 2?? OK, I am in the process of replacing my rubber brake lines, pads, rotors and brake fluid. I pulled all my brakes apart seeing I plan on cleaning them up and painting them at the same time. Needless to say, my brake system drained itself. I just ran across a post about not letting the master cylinder run dry. Well, mine has already ran dry so too late for that....lol
Anyway, I have read that you will need a Tech 2 to open a solenoid so you can bleed fluid through it and purge the air out.
I have also read other posts from people who have dried out their MC and did not have to use a Tech 2. I plan on filling it back up and letting it sit for awhile to gravity bleed it before I do a full bleed.....
so...am I going to have to visit the dealer to have them to a Tech 2 bleed or not??
How will I know if I will need the Tech 2??
thanks,
Paul
Anyway, I have read that you will need a Tech 2 to open a solenoid so you can bleed fluid through it and purge the air out.
I have also read other posts from people who have dried out their MC and did not have to use a Tech 2. I plan on filling it back up and letting it sit for awhile to gravity bleed it before I do a full bleed.....
so...am I going to have to visit the dealer to have them to a Tech 2 bleed or not??
How will I know if I will need the Tech 2??
thanks,
Paul
05-11-2006, 10:28 PM
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As far as i know i beleive you're fine. I just started at the chevy dealership about 3 months ago...so i don't have all the experience yet, but i think you're fine.
05-12-2006, 12:35 AM
#5
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You can 'bench' bleed a master before a TechII is even part of the equation. In fact, its the only way to bleed a dry master before it goes into the chassis.... reguardles of ABS or not.
05-15-2006, 10:16 AM
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here is what a tech told me.....
"You dont have to have the scan tool. Just bench bleed the master in car. Crack/loosen the line at the master one line at a time. Have helper push down pedal to floor w/ it open.Once pedal is bottomed, close line & let up on pedal. Repeat all lines multiple times till you feel master is bled.
Then bleed all the wheels normally, do not let the master get low.
Put all the wheels on once you have a decent pedal & cannot get any more air.
Drive the car, once you hit 15 or so MPH the ABS will do a self check & cycle the hold & dump valves then re-home them. This will cycle the air out of the ABS unit to the wheels.
Then take it back & rebleed & your all set."
"You dont have to have the scan tool. Just bench bleed the master in car. Crack/loosen the line at the master one line at a time. Have helper push down pedal to floor w/ it open.Once pedal is bottomed, close line & let up on pedal. Repeat all lines multiple times till you feel master is bled.
Then bleed all the wheels normally, do not let the master get low.
Put all the wheels on once you have a decent pedal & cannot get any more air.
Drive the car, once you hit 15 or so MPH the ABS will do a self check & cycle the hold & dump valves then re-home them. This will cycle the air out of the ABS unit to the wheels.
Then take it back & rebleed & your all set."
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05-24-2012, 05:04 AM
#8
here is what a tech told me.....
"You dont have to have the scan tool. Just bench bleed the master in car. Crack/loosen the line at the master one line at a time. Have helper push down pedal to floor w/ it open.Once pedal is bottomed, close line & let up on pedal. Repeat all lines multiple times till you feel master is bled.
Then bleed all the wheels normally, do not let the master get low.
Put all the wheels on once you have a decent pedal & cannot get any more air.
Drive the car, once you hit 15 or so MPH the ABS will do a self check & cycle the hold & dump valves then re-home them. This will cycle the air out of the ABS unit to the wheels.
Then take it back & rebleed & your all set."
"You dont have to have the scan tool. Just bench bleed the master in car. Crack/loosen the line at the master one line at a time. Have helper push down pedal to floor w/ it open.Once pedal is bottomed, close line & let up on pedal. Repeat all lines multiple times till you feel master is bled.
Then bleed all the wheels normally, do not let the master get low.
Put all the wheels on once you have a decent pedal & cannot get any more air.
Drive the car, once you hit 15 or so MPH the ABS will do a self check & cycle the hold & dump valves then re-home them. This will cycle the air out of the ABS unit to the wheels.
Then take it back & rebleed & your all set."
05-24-2012, 07:27 AM
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I can tell you I am still driving the car without any issues after doing just what I posted. I have never had any issues since I bled them back in '06. Everything seemed to have worked out just fine.
05-09-2013, 06:00 AM
#13
I'm having this issue now but I installed a 4 channel rear in my 3 channel car so I can't plug in my rear abs sensor. The car sat with the rear line to the T block disconnected and open for 3 months and i think buddles made their way to the abs block but the master didnt go completely dry. I bled the **** out of the rear and bled the 2 bleeders on the abs unit itself all with the car off. With the rear abs plug unplugged will the abs ever cycle to push the air to the wheels? I know the teeth count on a 3 channel ring is more than a 4 channel ring, but if I extend the wires and plug it into 1 wheel will I be able to get the abs to cycle? I have not tried the method of first bleeding with the car off, then again with the car on but I will try that if I get no better ideas.
Edit*** I first bled the rear then started the car and lost the pedal a few weeks ago, then last night realized that the PO of the 4 channel rear installed the calipers on the wrong sides with bleeders down. I swapped calipers and rebled the rear with the car off and the petal feels better but not rock hard, tried to start it but the battery was dead so I'm charging it now and will start it tonight to see if I get a pedal with vaccuum.
My method of bleeding is the 1 man bleeder kit with the little tube that goes to a 4oz reservoir that I hold above the bleeder, so when I push the petal air and fluid go into the reservoir and when I release only fluid can go back.
Edit*** I first bled the rear then started the car and lost the pedal a few weeks ago, then last night realized that the PO of the 4 channel rear installed the calipers on the wrong sides with bleeders down. I swapped calipers and rebled the rear with the car off and the petal feels better but not rock hard, tried to start it but the battery was dead so I'm charging it now and will start it tonight to see if I get a pedal with vaccuum.
My method of bleeding is the 1 man bleeder kit with the little tube that goes to a 4oz reservoir that I hold above the bleeder, so when I push the petal air and fluid go into the reservoir and when I release only fluid can go back.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 05-09-2013 at 06:05 AM.
