Setting proportioning valve?
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Hackettstown, NJ
Setting proportioning valve? I bought the SJM LL kit and ABS delete... i was told if i dotn set the valve right it could cause problems if i have to brreak hard? how do i figure out homw much brake fulid needs to go to the back? thanks for helpin me out 
You'd like the rears to lock up barely after the fronts
do, for control (sliding tires have less grip than stuck
ones and the rear will whip around if it's sliding and
the fronts are still stuck). So basically find yourself
a friendly, lonesome, wide piece of asphalt and do
some threshold braking (surfing the onset of lockup)
adjusting the prop valve until you do -not- lose
directional control. If you spin, put less pressure
to the rears. If you don't, up it. Eventually you'll
find the sweet spot.
do, for control (sliding tires have less grip than stuck
ones and the rear will whip around if it's sliding and
the fronts are still stuck). So basically find yourself
a friendly, lonesome, wide piece of asphalt and do
some threshold braking (surfing the onset of lockup)
adjusting the prop valve until you do -not- lose
directional control. If you spin, put less pressure
to the rears. If you don't, up it. Eventually you'll
find the sweet spot.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 540
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Optimum brake bias depends on a number of factors..
The main ones being:
CG location
Targeted deceleration
Wheelbase
Now for targeted deceleration it varies depending on the friction coefficient of the ground-tire interface.
What i am saying is that in the rain you would want somthing closer to 50/50 f/r bias and then for nice smooth dry roads you can be upwards of 70/30 bias and above. The faster you stop, the more weight transfer you have to the front wheels and less weight on the rears
The main ones being:
CG location
Targeted deceleration
Wheelbase
Now for targeted deceleration it varies depending on the friction coefficient of the ground-tire interface.
What i am saying is that in the rain you would want somthing closer to 50/50 f/r bias and then for nice smooth dry roads you can be upwards of 70/30 bias and above. The faster you stop, the more weight transfer you have to the front wheels and less weight on the rears
