Soul TKR

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys... as a few of you know i've been working on pretty much completing the suspesion area of my car. So far i've got...

Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Bilstein HD Struts/Shocks
Hotchkiss Swaybar Package (Front/Rear)
Random Technology Tubular Lower Control Arms (Poly/Poly)
Random Technology Adjustable Torque Arm
J&M Lower Control Arm Bolt-In Relocation Brackets

and I think that about does it...

I figure what I have left to do is the Strut Tower Brace, Panhard Rod, and Subframe Connectors....

My question is, what mod do you guys recommend I do next? What brand? and details like poly/poly, poly/rod, poly/rubber, adjustable, non-adjustable etc...

This is what I've been leaning towards on each one...

Subframes = 3 point UMI Bolt-In connectors (I might also weld these in as well for extra support)

Strut Tower Brace = I'm really undecided on this one... most people say the simple single bar design is fine enough... I've always liked the Hotchkis one, however a lot of people say it's a pain to install and remove if need be... I've also been looking at the 3pt. strut tower brace like this one

Panhard Rod = I'm also undecided on this one as well... i figure i'm gonna need an adjustable one because my car is lowered... but who makes a good quality one? and also, what kind of ends should I go with? I'm leaning towards poly/poly just because i hear the rod ends tend to make a lot of noise... :shrug:

anyways any input would be great guys! Thanks as usual!

PunishedU

iTrader: (1)

Don't get a 3-point strut bar. Waste of money imo. I just had one on my car. Literally took it off about a week ago because I couldn't stand it being there any more. When I took it off, I noticed no change in my driving. It was such a pain to work on the car with the bar in and a 3-point covers almost everything, making it impossible to get some tools in there. The hotchkiss(?) is the only one , I think, that is removable easily. The crossbar is held on by bolts that can be taken off if you need access to the engine. The hotchkiss also looks way better that most of the others, especially the polished version. Just my $.02.

PunishedU

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the second post, just noticed you are interested in SFC's. I just had Speed Inc. weld in a set of SLP SFC's and they are great. Definately much tighter, especially on the highway. I have a small exhaust knock, but I recommend them.

Soul TKR

iTrader: (4)

yea... i'm probably either gonna get the hotchkiss or the regular 2 pt. STB... didn't know if the 3pt. made any difference or not...

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

personally I'd ditch the Hotchkiss rear bar and get a Strano 22 mm or go back to stock.

Soul TKR

iTrader: (4)

:bump:

May Spin

Good call.... If you want to spend money, let's improve what you have right now. A 25mm rear is too rear biased IMO. Go no bigger than a 21mm solid (Strano's hollow bar work's very well). You should reconsider your damper choice, this will net you the largest improvement. Revalved HD's to match your Prokit spring rate or better still Koni's. Don't under estimate the need for a good tire and a custom alignment, those will have the last say in any setup.

Scott.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i wouldn't bother with bolt-in sub-frames, either...get the weld in.

i have the kenny brown dd sub-frames and couldn't be happier.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

If you havent got the shocks already you might want to look into getting a set of revalves instead of the off the shelf stuff.

The hotchkiss bars are nice, but the rear bar is too big...that is unless you lower your panhard bar, and thats a whole different animal.

I wouldnt waste my time with bolt on connectors, get the weld-in version and be done with it.

And I see a strut tower brace as a waste of time, others might not agree with me, but thats just how I feel. That, and its just in the way in an already cramped engine bay.