Fried Brakes
The ony problem is that when I was done, my front rotors were blue and the brake fluid was dark brown. I assume I boiled it. I have stock rotors/pads with <10K miles on the car.
What can I do to prevent this without spending $$$$?
This course was VERY fast for an AutoX, Hit limiter in Second.
Any suggestions?
Roger <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<small>[ June 11, 2002, 09:54 AM: Message edited by: rcclass ]</small>
Believe it or not, they aren't warped <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Roger
<strong>I thought about that, but I don't want to crack anything....
Believe it or not, they aren't warped <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Roger</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I would give fast toys a call and ask for the KVR blank rotor and have them slotted at least.You are very lucky they didnt warp. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
3 of us cracked the **** out of KVR blanks after 3 sessions on a road course. Drilled and slotted rotors (those in our price range, anyway) are more susceptible to cracking. Blueing rotors is no big deal ...
Autozone rotors are $40 ea. I don't care which rotor you put on it, you AX/RR, you are gonna burn up rotors. The AZs hold up very well, though. I've seen 3 weekends (24 sessions) on a road course out of a pair of fronts. That would be close to a season of AX ...
Pads are next. Carbotech Panthers are a good biting cold pad. In AX, you don't have an oppurtunity to build heat into pads before they begin biting. CT Panthers bite really well out of the box.
For God's sake, don't use silicone based brake fluid. It has a lot more compressibility and will yield you a "soft" pedal. If you are gonna AX much, move to Motul 5.1. I buy it for $8 1/2 litre at my local motorcycle shop.
Of course, when you get your brakes in order, you will begin wheel-hopping the crap out of the rear under HEAVY braking.
Also, I would move to all metal valve stems. Melting a valve stem makes good fodder for posting here, but it's not so much fun at the track.
Have fun ...
<small>[ June 12, 2002, 06:32 AM: Message edited by: mitchntx ]</small>
1. Keep the rotors as is for now.
2. Get Carbotech Panther pads.
3. Get Motul 5.1 Fluid.
4. Maybe get the Earls SS Line kit, If I'm flushing the system, I might as well <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Do the brakes heat the wheels up enough to melt the valve stem?
Oh, I always torque the wheels down. Can't be too careful <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Roger <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<small>[ June 12, 2002, 07:57 AM: Message edited by: rcclass ]</small>
If the rotors have no cracks or are not warped and have no spider-web looking surface cracking, then they should be OK.
SS brake lines are good.
On a road course, I've melted centercaps, valve stem caps and vulcanized the stem to the rim.
Always torque the lugs. However, because of heat and expansion, I torque to 90ft/lbs.
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