StalkerLS1

I posted this on LS1.com and wanted to post it here as well. I recently installed some LGM Hypercoil springs on my 2k Z28 and took a bunch of pics, etc. Here's my first "How-To" write up. I hope it makes enough sense that you might see the work is not that hard and can save some money doing your own install, etc.

Spring Install 98+ F-body

TomQ

Very nice instructions !
Please, someone help him to complete, so the rest of us can use it !!!

TTT

StalkerLS1

Thanks Tom. what do you mean help me complete? Was there anything you noticed that needed further explaination?

DARK AGE 53

Brian, good write up but I have one question and two comments about the write up. Question, why did you remove the upper a-arm? Comments, I would strongly suggest the use of a good spring compressor, another suggestion would be to leave one upper strut tower bolt in place until you're ready to remove the sping assembly.

To me safety is number one, here's a saying I have.

A dead man can't work on cars.

Just my two cents worth.

Al

StalkerLS1

Thanks for the valuable feedback Al. To answer your 1 question first..

I'm not sure if your making the suggestion of leaving a bolt in the upper A-arm because you fear the spring assembly would fall out once the lower shock mount bolts are removed from the lower A-arm or your suggesting it because it looks like it's just one less thing to bring down?? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Well.. I'll tell ya it might look like the spring assembly would drop but it won't. With all 4 bolts off and the 2 lower Shock Mount bolts removed from the lower A-arm you're still required to push down on the lower A-arm a little to get that thing out of there. Also 2 of the bolts (13mm) pass thru the upper A-arm into the top of the Spring Assembly so their gonna have to come out anyway.

As far as the Spring Compressor. I understand what you mean and it's very good advice. I wasn't sure if I should have stressed it's mandatory because of my experience there was very little compression on the spring. I removed the retainer bolt and it sorta popped no stronger than a rubber band but yeah I still think your advice is of Better be safe than sorry. No doubt! I'll update the page to remove my experience and stress others use a spring compressor.. I certainly don't want anyone getting hurt doing this!

thanks for your help!

Brian.

TomQ

hehe, i just meant for others to revise and suggest, i will be installing my eibach springs and bilstein shocks sometime soon, so your installation instructions just awesome!
Thanks for writing them up!

DARK AGE 53

Brian, the reason I asked about why you removed the upper a-arm was that I guess I don't remember doing that, that's what happens when you get old. Now what was I saying .......... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Al

prockbp

you don't have to disconnect the steering linkage.

the only time you can get away without removing the upper control arm is if you're are installing an assembly that is shorter than a stock shock/spring combo... if you're man enough to install a stock shock/spring combo without disconnecting the upper control arm, then you deserve a cookie

DARK AGE 53

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by prockbp:
<strong>you don't have to disconnect the steering linkage.

the only time you can get away without removing the upper control arm is if you're are installing an assembly that is shorter than a stock shock/spring combo... if you're man enough to install a stock shock/spring combo without disconnecting the upper control arm, then you deserve a cookie</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm not sure if you're refering to me but I understand you need to disconnect the upper a-arm, I just don't remember the upper a-arm coming off the spring/shocks asembly.

StalkerLS1

IMHO, the steering linkage takes like 5 seconds to remove. Instead of fighting to work around it or insuring you turned the wheel one way or the other first I'd just pop it loose and now you'll get free swivel of the wheel and can turn it any direction you like. It truly helped me alot and made the job go easier.

Al,

The upper A-arm has to come off because it just sits on top of the spring/shock assembly. Then the 2 13mm bolts pass thru the top of the Fender at the strut tower and into the Shock/Spring assembly. You can see the machined holes for it if you look at the photo of my Assembly on the bench where I'm showing how to take the retainer off.. Image # 13

DARK AGE 53

Brian, yes my memories coming back now <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> , I told you when you get old things like this happen.....oh **** what am I doing in this forum,,I thought this was the Prowler forum. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />