Brake Line - help required
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: London, UK
Brake Line - help required I have a 2000 Camaro SS with ASR (traction control).
I have bought a set of stainless steel brake lines from Brake Co and planned to install these at the weekend when I change the rotors, pads and paint the calipers.
HOWEVER - on reading the Haynes manual it says that if you have the Traction Control System (TCS) which I assume is basically the same as ASR you must take your car to a specialist dealer for the brakes to be bled and that you cannot bleed them yourself.
QUESTIONS:
- is this true?
- has anyone replaced their brake pipes? there are 6 for an ASR equipped car
Thanks guys.
I have bought a set of stainless steel brake lines from Brake Co and planned to install these at the weekend when I change the rotors, pads and paint the calipers.
HOWEVER - on reading the Haynes manual it says that if you have the Traction Control System (TCS) which I assume is basically the same as ASR you must take your car to a specialist dealer for the brakes to be bled and that you cannot bleed them yourself.
QUESTIONS:
- is this true?
- has anyone replaced their brake pipes? there are 6 for an ASR equipped car
Thanks guys.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: London, UK
Re: Brake Line - help required Thanks for the reply - did you drain the brake system before starting or just mop up any spillage?
I assume you tested the TCS afterwards and all was working fine.
Incidentally what year was the car?
I assume you tested the TCS afterwards and all was working fine.
Incidentally what year was the car?
Re: Brake Line - help required NO! DON'T drain the brake system.
Have all you parts, seals and wrenchs together before you break open the system.
Do it 1 line at a time to minimaze fluid loss. Keep an eye on the master cylinder to keep it full. DON'T LET THE MC RUN DRY! Bad things happen!
We did it on a 2K2 SS.
You do realize you will have to do a complete and thotough system flush to get all the air out, right?
I also suggest you go down to your local Autozone or equivalent and buy up 10 or so of those copper seals which look like washers. If you don't get a good seal, you'll have to replace both seals. For each fitting, there are 2 seals, BTW. They are cheap and it's better to have them and not need tham than need them and not have them. With brake fluid draining out of your car, is not the time to go chasing parts.
Have all you parts, seals and wrenchs together before you break open the system.
Do it 1 line at a time to minimaze fluid loss. Keep an eye on the master cylinder to keep it full. DON'T LET THE MC RUN DRY! Bad things happen!
We did it on a 2K2 SS.
You do realize you will have to do a complete and thotough system flush to get all the air out, right?
I also suggest you go down to your local Autozone or equivalent and buy up 10 or so of those copper seals which look like washers. If you don't get a good seal, you'll have to replace both seals. For each fitting, there are 2 seals, BTW. They are cheap and it's better to have them and not need tham than need them and not have them. With brake fluid draining out of your car, is not the time to go chasing parts.
Re: Brake Line - help required Just noticed you are in the UK ... so what are the chain parts stores across the pond?
I personally use Castrol SRF. On the 2K2 SS we used Motul 5.1. BUt these are performance fluids and require regular attention.
Valvoline makes some really good brake fluid, from what I'm told. Never actually used it in my car. I do have it in my tow truck.
I personally use Castrol SRF. On the 2K2 SS we used Motul 5.1. BUt these are performance fluids and require regular attention.
Valvoline makes some really good brake fluid, from what I'm told. Never actually used it in my car. I do have it in my tow truck.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: London, UK
Re: Brake Line - help required Thanks Mitch.
Parts in the UK are not so plentiful as in the US but during a recent trip I loaded up and have plenty to be going on with!!
I'll check the spec of the brake fluid here, I don't need anything too specialist as it's a daily drive with some visits to the track.
Thanks again for your help.
Parts in the UK are not so plentiful as in the US but during a recent trip I loaded up and have plenty to be going on with!!
I'll check the spec of the brake fluid here, I don't need anything too specialist as it's a daily drive with some visits to the track.
Thanks again for your help.
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Re: Brake Line - help required </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by mitchntx:
<strong> DON'T LET THE MC RUN DRY! Bad things happen!
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Like what <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
<strong> DON'T LET THE MC RUN DRY! Bad things happen!
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Like what <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
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Verdad Gallardo Re: Brake Line - help required </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by mitchntx:
<strong>If you get air in the MC body, it will take forever to get all the air out. You might even need to remove it and bench bleed the MC.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ummm ok.... So how would one install a line lock unit? Since a splice in the one of the main lines is required, how can you possibly keep the master cylinder full? With all the line lock installs I have heard about, there has been no problems with letting the master cylinder become empty for a while. Granted there was a **** load of bleeding required, but that is expected.
<strong>If you get air in the MC body, it will take forever to get all the air out. You might even need to remove it and bench bleed the MC.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Ummm ok.... So how would one install a line lock unit? Since a splice in the one of the main lines is required, how can you possibly keep the master cylinder full? With all the line lock installs I have heard about, there has been no problems with letting the master cylinder become empty for a while. Granted there was a **** load of bleeding required, but that is expected.