Why is the 10 bolt such a pansy?
10-30-2002, 10:56 PM
#1
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Why is the 10 bolt such a pansy? I will soon be putting the BMR Xtreme Duty Torque Arm on my car and would like to launch it, somewhat! Is there anything I can do to keep the rear end from failing on me? I need to know if the shorter torque arm will place more stress on the rear end. I would also like to know what fails first on the rear end. Basically, all I know is that the 10 bolt sucks and my clutch doesn't slip! What can I expect? Thanks fellas. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
10-30-2002, 11:13 PM
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Re: Why is the 10 bolt such a pansy? There are numerous things wrong with the 10 bolt small pinion,Weak diff,& sometimes axles.I have a a4 but run a 3200 vig.I have a motive gear everything else is stock.I have beat the **** out of it for over a year with et streets & n20.I have yet to have any problems but there are alot of people breaking them.I guess only time and more power will tell.
10-30-2002, 11:49 PM
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Re: Why is the 10 bolt such a pansy? Thanks for the info....BTW, do you launch on the juice? I wonder if I avoid doing that, I won't have to pick my rearend up off the track/street. Then again, it would be alot more fun to launch on the juice! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
10-31-2002, 09:17 AM
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Re: Why is the 10 bolt such a pansy? Generally, the A4 cars get away with much more power/abuse on the 10 bolt than the M6's because the A4 doesn't "shock" the rear as much as the M6. Kind of like a roll of paper towels - if you pull slowly on the paper towel (A4), the towels just keep rolling off the roll and don't rip, but yank sharply (M6) and you tear 1 towel off at the perforation.
10-31-2002, 06:03 PM
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Re: Why is the 10 bolt such a pansy? That is what I figured about the A4 cars. They usually seem to get better short times too. Tractions a bi***, especially when you have a hard grabbing clutch. So, is there anything I can do to keep from exploding that rear when I put the Trak Pak on it? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
11-01-2002, 05:36 PM
#6
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Re: Why is the 10 bolt such a pansy? </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by rom3:
<strong>Generally, the A4 cars get away with much more power/abuse on the 10 bolt than the M6's because the A4 doesn't "shock" the rear as much as the M6. Kind of like a roll of paper towels - if you pull slowly on the paper towel (A4), the towels just keep rolling off the roll and don't rip, but yank sharply (M6) and you tear 1 towel off at the perforation.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">GREAT analogy,rom3. Couldn't agree more.
The stock rear end is adequate for a stock F-body on stock tires...but just barely. About anything you do to increase traction, which is the limiting factor in driveline loads on the stock car, will lead to problems in the next weak link which is most lilkely the rear end. It's been like this for almost 40 years; the original GTO blew out side pinions when folks immediately started drag racing them on Butyl tires. When the pinions were beefed, the side gears went next, followed by cracking frames. You just chase the weak link along the chain.
Keep your launches and shifts from being too much of a shock to the drive line, and the axle might last a while. Changing the torque arm geometry might increase the anti-squat and give more downforce on the rear tires (one would hope so any way for the price), so that will load the axle more. Sooner or later, if you continue to add traction, you'll find the limit. Then it's probably 12 bolt or 9 inch time.
IMO, a smooth driving style can be fast and still save the equipment. That may be why some folks go fast with basically stock 10 bolts.
My $.02
<strong>Generally, the A4 cars get away with much more power/abuse on the 10 bolt than the M6's because the A4 doesn't "shock" the rear as much as the M6. Kind of like a roll of paper towels - if you pull slowly on the paper towel (A4), the towels just keep rolling off the roll and don't rip, but yank sharply (M6) and you tear 1 towel off at the perforation.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">GREAT analogy,rom3. Couldn't agree more.
The stock rear end is adequate for a stock F-body on stock tires...but just barely. About anything you do to increase traction, which is the limiting factor in driveline loads on the stock car, will lead to problems in the next weak link which is most lilkely the rear end. It's been like this for almost 40 years; the original GTO blew out side pinions when folks immediately started drag racing them on Butyl tires. When the pinions were beefed, the side gears went next, followed by cracking frames. You just chase the weak link along the chain.
Keep your launches and shifts from being too much of a shock to the drive line, and the axle might last a while. Changing the torque arm geometry might increase the anti-squat and give more downforce on the rear tires (one would hope so any way for the price), so that will load the axle more. Sooner or later, if you continue to add traction, you'll find the limit. Then it's probably 12 bolt or 9 inch time.
IMO, a smooth driving style can be fast and still save the equipment. That may be why some folks go fast with basically stock 10 bolts.
My $.02
