rotor and pad problem HELP
07-22-2006, 08:01 AM
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rotor and pad problem HELP I had installed power slot rotors and hawk pads about 3 weeks ago. After installing them from day 1 the rear passenger side was blowing crazy amount of brake dust. So I brought it to the dealer to let them take a look at it and they tell me the caliper was hanging up causing the in board pad to run on rotor so they replaced the caliper and cut both my new rotors. Now this is where Im getting a little crazy now after they do all this it is still doing the dust thing so I had some time to take a look at it and the rotor is shot grooves in it and a lip on rotor so I bring it back and they tell me the problem is the pads.....WHAT the F they sell me a new caliper and now there telling me it was the pads?? All right so now Im getting new pads and 2 new rotors from TIRE RACK which did the right thing for me. They charging me 50% off the rotors and replaced the pads. But I had sent them these pic's and there telling me that the caliper is shot what do you think. Now this is the new caliper that the dealer had installed when I brought the car back and they told me the pads were the cause they said they checked the caliper and every this was good.
So now what do I do install the new rotors and pads or what....
2 thumbs up for Tire Rack
So now what do I do install the new rotors and pads or what....
2 thumbs up for Tire Rack 
07-24-2006, 10:59 AM
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Did you verify that the caliper piston(s) is/are not siezed and that the sliders slide freely? If those are are fine then the caliper should be fine. Bleed the brakes and replace the fluid with new/better fluid. This will not only give you the benefits of new/better/clean fluid and a bled system, but this will also give you an idea about whether the fluid is flowing through the caliper (just becuse it flows throught still doesnt mean that the caliper is in perfect working order through). Test the drag on the rotor. After the system is fully re-presurised (from the bleed process or pumping the pedal a few times to return pressure/feel), Put the wheel back on or Install one or two lugnuts to hold the rotor firm in place (if you havent already). If you leave the wheel off, you'll get a better view but have less mechanical advanatage. I usually leave the wheel off so I can see everything up close. Have a friend get in the car to operate the brakes. Rotate the rotor and take note of the drag. Does it feel normal? Any noise? Tell your friend to press the pedal while you rotate the rotor. Does it stop normally? Tell your friend to get off the pedal and rotate the rotor again. Does it still feel normal? Any noise? Repeat this a few times to satisfy yourself that everything is working properly. Then go out for a drive. Does everything feel normal? Any noise? Any discoloration on the rotors (blue/gold/purple stipes/blotches)? To the drag test again. Leave the wheel on or let everything cool down before you burn yourself. There may be a slight increase in drag when everything is warm, but if its the same as the ones that arent giving you probelms then its probably nothing to worry about. If all that is fine, check again in a few days. If everything is still fine then you should be all set. If this problem re-occurs, then I'm stumped. At that point either there is a problem with the caliper or the lines or...?
07-24-2006, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by VIP1
Did you verify that the caliper piston(s) is/are not siezed and that the sliders slide freely? If those are are fine then the caliper should be fine. Bleed the brakes and replace the fluid with new/better fluid. This will not only give you the benefits of new/better/clean fluid and a bled system, but this will also give you an idea about whether the fluid is flowing through the caliper (just becuse it flows throught still doesnt mean that the caliper is in perfect working order through). Test the drag on the rotor. After the system is fully re-presurised (from the bleed process or pumping the pedal a few times to return pressure/feel), Put the wheel back on or Install one or two lugnuts to hold the rotor firm in place (if you havent already). If you leave the wheel off, you'll get a better view but have less mechanical advanatage. I usually leave the wheel off so I can see everything up close. Have a friend get in the car to operate the brakes. Rotate the rotor and take note of the drag. Does it feel normal? Any noise? Tell your friend to press the pedal while you rotate the rotor. Does it stop normally? Tell your friend to get off the pedal and rotate the rotor again. Does it still feel normal? Any noise? Repeat this a few times to satisfy yourself that everything is working properly. Then go out for a drive. Does everything feel normal? Any noise? Any discoloration on the rotors (blue/gold/purple stipes/blotches)? To the drag test again. Leave the wheel on or let everything cool down before you burn yourself. There may be a slight increase in drag when everything is warm, but if its the same as the ones that arent giving you probelms then its probably nothing to worry about. If all that is fine, check again in a few days. If everything is still fine then you should be all set. If this problem re-occurs, then I'm stumped. At that point either there is a problem with the caliper or the lines or...?
But Thanks again I just hope this works out for me.
07-29-2006, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by VIP1
You're Welcome.
Let me know how it goes.
Let me know how it goes.
Which Ramp Chevy of Port Jeff did to me.
Thanks again Bro.
