bigshoe

iTrader: (2)

my car has no weight reduction, i have a 98 ws6, with everything but traction control, I came in at 3480 with about 5/8ths gas, so you are almost 200 lbs lighter than me. I need to look into some weight reduction, my car can feel like a leadsled at times, but I'm pretty happy with how its setup, alot more nimble than when it was stock.

here are the pics
<img src="http://www.big-shoe.net/images/Camaro6a.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.big-shoe.net/images/Camaro5a.jpg" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://www.big-shoe.net/images/Camaro3a.jpg" alt=" - " />

I plan on doing this mod also, I dont think i have to worry about getting it on a 4 wheel lift for this, probably just drive each side up on something and have a friend weld it up. For those who cant see, the idea is to weld up the long outermost bar of the kbdd's in more than 2 points (they have 2 peices of square tubing to weld to the pinch bolts of the body), and by placing these outer most towards the front subframe and towards the rear subrame, it stiffens the body/chassis not only because of more attachment points, but because of thier placement.
I'm pretty much just repeating what Scot said, but i figure it should be in the post with the pictures

scot

Miki, Thanks for posting the pictures, they are from an intermediate phase in the cars developement and I no longer have them myself. FWIW when people talk about tubular vs. boxed sfc's, they either way have a 2 point connector with a leaverage arm ~5 feet long. You can see from the pictures that the modified KB's have a leaverage arm of less than 1 foot. One inch square steel leaveraged over that distance is MUCH more rigid than even a 2 or 3 inch tube or box leaveraged over more than 5 times the distance. There is no weight penalty for the modification and you can not stiffen a chassis too much, unlike a suspension.

bigSS

I have the BMR tubulars... a good friend of mine has the KBDDs. The kenny browns are superior. Night and day difference.

Get the KBDDs.

99Z28RS

Well i've decided to get a Eibacb Pro-Kit along with the KBDD's and ill save your post scot and when recieve the SFC's have the shop do the mod, thanks for taking the time to explain it to me.

BurnOut

iTrader: (1)

I have the boxed BMR's with LG V-braces/tunnel brace:

<img src="http://www.lgmotorsports.com/pictures/products/g2-sub-vbrace-loop-lg.gif" alt=" - " />

The car seems pretty rigid; if I want to pick up one wheel by placing a jack on the frame near that wheel, by the time I get the wheel off the ground (the one that I am near), the other wheel on that side of the car is damn near off the ground, too. I have had full frame cars/trucks that aren't that stout, I'm sure it could be better, but it seems to do what I need it to do.

David N

I have had a problem ever since my KBDDs were intstalled. I also had the shop add some reinforcement plates close to the lower control arm mounts. But, I now get a thunking sound from the right rear when going over bumpy/uneven roads, as if the control arm is loose. The sound is very similar to my 3rd gen when the nuts on my adjustable lower control arm where loose. However, I've jacked my car up, and tried this also under load, where I've tightened the hell out of the body control arm mount. Also, I then replaced the stock arms with LG control arms thinking the stock bushing was warped during the SFC install. Still, I have that thunk coming from the rear. I'm at my wits end, any ideas? Am I looking in the wrong place for something loose.

Thanks, Dave '01 WS6 T/A, '91 GTA, '91 T/A

SloppyRob

I had my kbdd's welded at a race shop on Long island (Lizzard Racing). They did his mod to the sfc's without me even telling em. My car is rock solid and the difference is night and day.