Did anyone try the kit? and is it a good package for the price? I want to fix the suspension on my LS1 for handling more than drag racing(Note:i have 315's in the back). So what do u think guys? Or is it better just to get me springs, shocks, sways, subframe connectors(welded),and panhard rods and thats a total of 1300 compared to 1600 for the G2 Coil over kit and i dont get subframe connectors, sways, and panhard rods. Anything else i missed up there if i want a good handling package?

<small>[ December 25, 2002, 03:59 AM: Message edited by: LSs1Power ]</small>

 

If you want to handle,
Sub Fram Connectors- Stiffen Rear, Better Resistence to Chassis Flex
Pan Hard Rod- More Acceleration, when coming out of corner in 1st (auto-cross) can put the power down
Lower Control Arms-same as remount
LCA Remount-when coming out of same corner, no wheel hop and better traction
Sway Bars- stiffen anti-roll fetures, less camber deflection
Springs - lower ride height, less shock damper of braking force, better braking, helps to stiffen roll and also keep camber correct.
Strut Tower Bar- stiffens front of car, less angine bay deflection, creates less understeer due to incorrect camber of a leaning shock tower. On the STB just try it don;t argue it seems to be a personal thing of wether you like it or not.
With that you would notice a major difference in traction out of the hole, and handling through the corners.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Boo Yeah:
<strong>If you want to handle,
Sub Fram Connectors- Stiffen Rear, Better Resistence to Chassis Flex
Pan Hard Rod- More Acceleration, when coming out of corner in 1st (auto-cross) can put the power down
Lower Control Arms-same as remount
LCA Remount-when coming out of same corner, no wheel hop and better traction
Sway Bars- stiffen anti-roll fetures, less camber deflection
Springs - lower ride height, less shock damper of braking force, better braking, helps to stiffen roll and also keep camber correct.
Strut Tower Bar- stiffens front of car, less angine bay deflection, creates less understeer due to incorrect camber of a leaning shock tower. On the STB just try it don;t argue it seems to be a personal thing of wether you like it or not.
With that you would notice a major difference in traction out of the hole, and handling through the corners.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Wow thanks alot for the great explanation. So if i wanted my car to oversteer which i like during autoX, and race tracks i shouldnt get the Panhard rod? Also i noticed u didnt say anything about getting shocks? U dont recommend it? Thanks

 

First off if the suspension on your car is bone stock I don't know if I would start with the coil over kit. Its not going to hurt anything to do it first but I think you might have better luck building up a strong foundation before going with the coil over kit as it would be better to have a stiff chassis to start from.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you want to handle,
Sub Fram Connectors- Stiffen Rear, Better Resistence to Chassis Flex[/QUOTE}

I'll agree with you on this one. Probably the 2 best that I have seen are the Kenny Brown Double Diamonds and the LG Subs with cross bracing.

{QUOTE}Pan Hard Rod- More Acceleration, when coming out of corner in 1st (auto-cross) can put the power down[/QUOTE}

I have no idea what you are thinking on this one. The main reason for the adj panhards is to center the rear end for bigger tires and just to keep the rear end from moving side to side under cornering

[QUOTE}Lower Control Arms-same as remount
LCA Remount-when coming out of same corner, no wheel hop and better traction</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Agreed, I have never really used relocation brackets since I have not lowered the car much from stock yet. The idea behind the brackets is to keep the LCA's parrallel to the ground. When you lower the car they start to point up in the back so you need to move the rear mounts down to corect the rear suspension geometry. A good set of adj. LCA's with at least one set of rod ends will help out greatly in freeing up the rear suspension and keep it from binding.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sway Bars- stiffen anti-roll fetures, less camber deflection</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">They do help in keeping the car flatter thru the turns.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Springs - lower ride height, less shock damper of braking force, better braking, helps to stiffen roll and also keep camber correct.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Springs, control ride height. Spring rate will also help on grip depending on how they are setup. They can help traction and steering depending on the setup. Springs should also be matched up with the correct shock valving for best results.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Strut Tower Bar- stiffens front of car, less angine bay deflection, creates less understeer due to incorrect camber of a leaning shock tower. On the STB just try it don;t argue it seems to be a personal thing of wether you like it or not.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This does help in keeping the front end stiff and in the right location. The best one for this would be a 4pt so as to keep everything aligned side to side and front to back. The only down side is that it can sometimes be a pain to take on and off if you do a lot of work to the motor.

I by no means am saying that I know it all, because I don't. (I'm still working on understanding shock valving, and spring rates and how to set them up) I am just going off of what has worked and what I understand on how it all goes together and from the help I have gotten from other SCCA racers. Probably one of the best things you could do to sort it out for your car would be to call and talk to people that make the products and use them. Hell call up LG Motorsports and talk to Louis or Lou they are always willing to give ya a hand on getting it sorted out so that you don't have to go back and change parts (like I had to). I think they are having a sale til the end of the month right now.

Also don't expect a good RR suspension to do much for you at the drag strip. While it will help on traction and sticking the car to the ground, most setups geared towards the track don't do to much for helping a car get off the line at the strip. So don't expect it to do it all.

<small>[ December 26, 2002, 10:39 AM: Message edited by: 1LEThumper ]</small>

 

I just forgot shocks. But they don't ever seem to affect handling as much as the other on the cars I have dealt with.

 

Thanks guys.

 

You guys are forgeting some of the most important things like alignment and weight. And the affects of the weight/braking down force. That is where the shocks come to play! I am not so sure about that remount bracket. Adj. LCA will pull the wheel in and affect pinon. Well so do the brackets or a torque arm. The bracket are a nice quick way to get a little more traction. And if you really want to get into it then the tube vs. box for LCA and SFC? I only use BMR box SFC. but the car is stiffer than any KBDD b/c of the extra welding and cage install. I would have gone with the KBDD but they go not fit on some cars!