sway bar end links
01-14-2003, 08:33 PM
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sway bar end links While reading GMHTP (March) I read the article on the suspinsion set up for ther project car Grape Of Wrath and noticed they put the same set up on it as I have.
My question is if you lower your car (like I W/Eibachs) how important is it to put shorter swaybar end links on?
The caption said
"We chose a slightly shorter end link because we were lowering the car.This should locate our front swaybar in roughly the same place"
What do they mean?
Were can I get "shorter end kinks"?
And are they really needed?
Thx in advance.
My question is if you lower your car (like I W/Eibachs) how important is it to put shorter swaybar end links on?
The caption said
"We chose a slightly shorter end link because we were lowering the car.This should locate our front swaybar in roughly the same place"
What do they mean?
Were can I get "shorter end kinks"?
And are they really needed?
Thx in advance.
01-15-2003, 04:07 AM
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Re: sway bar end links All they wanted to do was to keep the same angle{or lack of angle} that the swaybar had before it was lowered. I wouldn't think it would be that big of a deal if you only lower it 1.5 inches or so. Ever see a older Chevy truck {86 back} that has been lifted alot? The swaybar angles down and will prevent some downward travel and creats binding. People put spacers between the frame and swaybar to try to get it a little more level to fix it. It's only a biggie when they are lifted over 4-6 inches.
Same thing happens when you lower the vehicle. If you are really bugged by it, I would think you could just cut a smidge off the spacers{if you have enough thread length on the bolts} and bolt them back up. If not, by some fully threaded bolts or run a tap down the stock ones. I can't remember for sure if the thread go far enough or not. I've had the sway bar off and on about 20 times or so, just never paid it any attention.
I really don't think it's a biggie if your only going 1.5 -2 inches. Someone else have any opinions on it? I would like to know for sure.
Same thing happens when you lower the vehicle. If you are really bugged by it, I would think you could just cut a smidge off the spacers{if you have enough thread length on the bolts} and bolt them back up. If not, by some fully threaded bolts or run a tap down the stock ones. I can't remember for sure if the thread go far enough or not. I've had the sway bar off and on about 20 times or so, just never paid it any attention.
I really don't think it's a biggie if your only going 1.5 -2 inches. Someone else have any opinions on it? I would like to know for sure.
01-15-2003, 05:43 PM
#3
Re: sway bar end links The goal is to keep the sway bars "parallel" to the ground and square with the rest of the suspension parts. It avoids binding and helps to keep the bar "working" properly (the length of the "arms" on a sway bar that connect to the end links help to decide the "rate" of that bar, but staying parallel, it helps the end links to have proper leverage on the bar. Also, the angle will help to wear the endlinks by putting extra load on them and can cause excessive sear and slop).
Also, I'd never run a tap onto a suspension bolt (or any other automotive fastner, not just suspension) to add threads, you will cause "stress risers" where the threads are cut (which leads to fatigue and failure). Most proper bolts are heat treated and the threads are "rolled" into the bar stock (after heat treat), this is essentially "forging" the threads and makes for a strong bolt.
To get shorter end links, measure the length of the spacer (the hollow sleve between the washers on the end link) and call Jegs or almost any parts store to get the length you need to line the bar back up properly. If you don't do it...it's not the end of the world...but it is the "proper way".
Good luck.
Also, I'd never run a tap onto a suspension bolt (or any other automotive fastner, not just suspension) to add threads, you will cause "stress risers" where the threads are cut (which leads to fatigue and failure). Most proper bolts are heat treated and the threads are "rolled" into the bar stock (after heat treat), this is essentially "forging" the threads and makes for a strong bolt.
To get shorter end links, measure the length of the spacer (the hollow sleve between the washers on the end link) and call Jegs or almost any parts store to get the length you need to line the bar back up properly. If you don't do it...it's not the end of the world...but it is the "proper way".
Good luck.
