So basically all panhards are the same?
Drew
Chris
<strong> They are all the same in design. As has been said though, some MAY use better rod ends than others so check that out. Any of the big companies (BMR, LG, etc....) use good parts.
Chris </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">See thats what i was thinking. Has anyone noticed a change in road noise w/ rod ends? either way i think ill get the spherical ends. thanks guys
Drew
Steve
<strong> If you keep the mounting bolts tight, you won't really receave any more noise. Its when they are loose and can rattle over bumps. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not entirely true ...
I had a BMR APHB with rod ends. As the diff moved up and down, the rod itself would twist back and forth, hitting the body mount with the rod end housing.
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<strong> If you are weight conscious, that is something that makes them different as well. The G2 and Billingsley panhards should be the lightest out there.
Steve </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">That is if they are aluminum.....I have the Z Rated Motorsports aluminum one and it is REALLY light.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001CamaroGuy:
<strong> If you keep the mounting bolts tight, you won't really receave any more noise. Its when they are loose and can rattle over bumps. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not entirely true ...
I had a BMR APHB with rod ends. As the diff moved up and down, the rod itself would twist back and forth, hitting the body mount with the rod end housing. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I get what your saying...thats like what my LCAs did (also have double rod ends on them). What I did to get rid of that was turn the rod ends out off alighnment (so they are not stright up and down). This prevents them from being able to rotate very much and got rid of all the clicking.
Chris
<strong> They are all the same in design. As has been said though, some MAY use better rod ends than others so check that out. Any of the big companies (BMR, LG, etc....) use good parts.
Chris </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">FYI...BMR does NOT use the same joints as LG. BMR's are cheap and noisy; LG's uses high quality helm joints. no comparision
FYI...BMR does NOT use the same joints as LG. BMR's are cheap and noisy; LG's uses high quality helm joints. no comparision [/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">But my LCAs don't make any noise and they have been on the car for some 10,000 miles. I'm not saying the BMRs are better (or even as good as) than the LGs, I'm just saying they don't seem too bad. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Chris
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by mitchntx:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001CamaroGuy:
<strong> If you keep the mounting bolts tight, you won't really receave any more noise. Its when they are loose and can rattle over bumps. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Not entirely true ...
I had a BMR APHB with rod ends. As the diff moved up and down, the rod itself would twist back and forth, hitting the body mount with the rod end housing. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I get what your saying...thats like what my LCAs did (also have double rod ends on them). What I did to get rid of that was turn the rod ends out off alighnment (so they are not stright up and down). This prevents them from being able to rotate very much and got rid of all the clicking.
Chris </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Wouldn't that also cause bind in one direction. You basically prevent the rod from moving in the direction you turn it. Kinda defeats the purpose of a rod end, might as well get poly.
<strong> Wouldn't that also cause bind in one direction. You basically prevent the rod from moving in the direction you turn it. Kinda defeats the purpose of a rod end, might as well get poly. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It "could" bind if it moves to much laterally (left and right), but the rear-end is only supposed to move vertically (up and down). If it moves in the lateral, the tires will crash into the fender and bad things will happen there so its a direction of travel that is not needed. Even with the rod ends "locked over", it still gets a good bit of lateral movement (far more than you want.....once again....rear-end moves sideways.....BAD!!!).
later <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
Chris





