Car shaking badly after changing the front rotors
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My stock rotors were warped so I changed them with Discount Auto Parts rotors and Quiet Stop pads. I followed the instructions from Install University and torqued everything including lugnuts to specs. Then I broke them like like every other rotor I've ever done, a few hard 30-0 stops and a few hard 60 - 0 stops then let them cool off. After all this when I went to drive my car, I noticed that the car would lunge back and forth when stopping at low speeds, and at higher speeds the whole car shakes violently. However I don't feel anything in the steering wheel like i did before. Now I feel the shake throughout the whole car. Could I have warped my rear rotors while breaking in the fronts? Or did I somehow mess up the new front ones?
#2
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If the problem is the rear brakes, you should be able to check it (not on public roads, of course) by gently pulling up on the emergency brake handle....if the rears are the problem, it will probably begin to shake (maybe violently). I have to suggest that you not do this on public roads (or somebody else will advise me about being responsible), and that you keep your thumb on the release button on the handle (so the parking brake can't "set").
I am running Carbotech panther plus pads on the front (brembo oem rotors) and rear (factory GM rotors) and have had them hot enough to smoke and have had no problems with either set of rotors. If you got them really hot, and then parked the car (without driving a few miles to cool them down) you may have warped something. Good luck!
I am running Carbotech panther plus pads on the front (brembo oem rotors) and rear (factory GM rotors) and have had them hot enough to smoke and have had no problems with either set of rotors. If you got them really hot, and then parked the car (without driving a few miles to cool them down) you may have warped something. Good luck!
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Are your new pads ceramic, ceramic mix, or carbon fiber? Hi performance pads require a gradual heat/cooling cycle before they work well, expecially with aluminum rotors. Pull your pads, and check them for glazing (shiny spots on the pad material). Next, check your run-out on the rotors, make sure they didn't warp. If everything checks out, re-install to torque specs and run the car normally (stop and go traffic, gradual braking, a few hard stops here and there). If the shimmy comes back, try going back to the stock semi-metallic pads. Good Luck! <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />
#4
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One other thing....many of the auto parts stores that I worked at in college had a habit of storing rotors and drums standing vertically (on the edge of the boxes), this will cause the rotors to warp from their own weight. Don't buy any rotors or drums from a parts store that stands them on edge, you will more than likely get warped ones (they say to store flat right on the box!). YOu can't always see them, but try to watch when they get them off the shelf (or just ask the guy). You may have stumbled into this problem. Just a thought.