talonis

I installed a new shock on the front passenger side and I took it out for a test drive. Things seem really clunky over there. Is there a break-in period for a new shock or is there something wrong? I've checked the spring seating, and re-torqued down the nuts and bolts on the strut tower, retorqued down the nut that holds the spindle arm, the bolts and nuts securing the shock to the lower a-arm and lastly the swaybar endlink. Any suggestions? I need help before the sun sets!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I'm guessing that the top shock mounting bolt is loose....but you'll have to take the shock mount out of the fender to check that.....just my guess....look for a loose endlink as well.

talonis

Yeah, that could be, I didn't check the torquing on that one since it was already mounted back up. Do you think it's safe to drive around on it until the weekend? Or should it stay parked until I pull it apart again? Unfortunately this happens to be my daily driver/only car. Otherwise the wife will have to drive me to work and she'll not be pleased <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Depends on how lucky you feel, if it comes apart, you'll have a real mess. Go outside, jack up that side of the car, remove the sway bar end link, pull the caliper (to avoid stretching the brake line) and remove the 4 bolts from the fender. The upper control arm, shock, and spring will drop right down and you can swing it all out of the fender....tighten the bolt, and a good firm shove puts the studs back into the holes and you can put the nuts and bolts on. It is rather quick if you do it that way. I changed both sides like that. First side took 2.5 hrs to formulate a plan, and the second side took 30 minutes to change. Good luck!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I say "drops right out"....I actually stepped on the wheel studs to get it loose, and it dropped down and cleared the fender etc. It is not too hard this way.....just wanted to clarify....

talonis

That sounds like a plan. I was dreading having to take out the whole assembly, it's a tough job without having someone else to help. Your way definately sounds like the way to go. Thanks for the tip!

talonis

Just to clarify, when you say "pull the caliper" you mean the whole spindle arm assembly right?

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, I didn't see your last post last night (went to bed). Nope, just take the caliper and pads off. I didn't pull the ball joints on my car. I just removed the endlink, took off the caliper and pads and removed the 4 bolts (nuts, etc) in the fender mounting location, stepped on the end of the rotor (the wheel studs) and gave it a bounce, the studs will pull out of the fender, and the whole thing will swing down (mine cleared the fender and I used not spring compressors on it). Once it swings out, just lift the upper control arm mount off the studs and turn it 90 degrees and you will have your nut right in front of you. Any questions, drop me a line at trackbird@columbus.rr.com I'll try to help if I can.

Kevin