Do I need a better torque arm?
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
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Do I need a better torque arm? After the installation of my full exhaust, (off road long tubes ory and bullet muffler) along with all the intake and throttel body mods, i experienced impressive gains. The engine is still stock, along with everything else. I noticed the rear seems kind of skitzy and almost loose under hard acceleration in 1st and 2nd. I checked all of the bolts and the torque arms panhard bars and sway bars and everything is tight, and nothing damaged. Is it just that the power gained was enough to show the ineffiencey of the stock unit? So should I be intalling a new torque arm and any other suspension goodies?
12 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Tempe, AZ
Originally Posted by red fury
might be something else....... i am still running the stock torque arm with 500+ rwhp & rwtq with no ill effects. maybe you need some better tires on the rear?
Now that the bolts are checked, have you checked the bushings, particularly the LCA bushings?
And I agree with red fury about looking at the tyres. like his car, i run quite a bit of hp/tq on my track car and still had the stock TA when I wasn't that low. The only time I had to consider a TA upgrade is when I discovered that my pinion angle was little off from considerably lowering ride height.
And I agree with red fury about looking at the tyres. like his car, i run quite a bit of hp/tq on my track car and still had the stock TA when I wasn't that low. The only time I had to consider a TA upgrade is when I discovered that my pinion angle was little off from considerably lowering ride height.
I actually bent my stock torque arm on a 6600 RPM clutch dump on 27" ET streets... with only 320 rwhp. I'd like to say they're not that good, but then again, I have a friend who's been 143mph on this STOCK torque arm in an auto with around 800 at the wheels.
Ben T.
Ben T.
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
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yeah i did check everything. It just seems like it jerks just a little bit. It just started after I did the full exhaust. It is only noticable under wide open throttle in 1st gear and into 2nd. The car has 5k miles on it and the bushings and control arms are in check. The good year eagle f1s are fresh as can be. Also- the stock tunnel brace did not fit back over the exhaust. Is it important to get an after market tunnel brace? Perhaps if I do the torque arms and control arms I wont have to worry about the rear being stable and hooked up.
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I've been having the exact same issue. Mods are even the same. I have 30K on the F1's on my car though. I still pulled a 1.996 60' last fall at the track even with the wheel hop.
I just installed a set of BMR LCA's in hope that the better bushings will help me out. I'm also looking into the BMR TA but can't decide on adjustable or non adjustable. I like the adjustable feature but not the extra cost since I will NEVER adjsut ride height, my headers are too close the gound as it is now.
Any one have any input about the adjustable vs non-adjustable?
I just installed a set of BMR LCA's in hope that the better bushings will help me out. I'm also looking into the BMR TA but can't decide on adjustable or non adjustable. I like the adjustable feature but not the extra cost since I will NEVER adjsut ride height, my headers are too close the gound as it is now.
Any one have any input about the adjustable vs non-adjustable?
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Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
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yeah its definately just shifty because of the wheel hop. I would go non adjustable, because it is already set at the optimal 2 degrees. Does anyone think that going new control arms and new TA will solve the problem? Also is that tunnel brace important? the stock one wont fit.
I started with BMR and have all BMR products (I like my stuff to match) but UMI has some soild looking stuff too. If you are going with the Sub Frames get the weld in style.