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My Ebrake Sucks!!!!!!!

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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:23 PM
  #21  
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..........until i had flat spots on my tires
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 04:44 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by dopy
I thought driving backwards with the ebrake on for a few feet would adjust it?
am I an idiot or is this for real?
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 05:28 PM
  #23  
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My ebrake BARELY engages at full pull....the handle is pointing to the sky! Having an M6 car, I cant even start the car up and go inside while it warms anymore. My driveway is on a 30* angle. I am doing some work to the car tomm. I will try and adjust them as posted on page 1. If I have good results, I will post up.

Thanks
Andy
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 05:29 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by kenkaru
am I an idiot or is this for real?
I think this method only works when you have a rear drum setup. I had drum brakes on my Jeep Cherokee and did this once or twice. It adjusts the "adjuster". It may/may not work on the ebrake adjusters. Someone go try it and post up! Hahaha

Andy
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 06:19 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by GREATWALLTA
I try to test out the Ebrake on my car today while driving. I was going like 10MPH or less, and put the tranny in nutrual then I pulled the Ebrake and it barely slowed down the car at all. Is it just me or does the F-body's Ebrake sucks to use while driving.
First off, it is not an "emergency" brake. It is however, a "praking" brake.

Secondly, it wasnt meant to be used while driving. An F-body isnt a Rally car and doesnt have brakes that can be utilized, like that of a Rally car.

Originally Posted by kenkaru
am I an idiot or is this for real?
Some adjustment mechanisms do use a self adjustment actuator that manually adjust's itself by moving in reverse and applying the brake. The parking brake mechnism that is an intergral part of the rotor hat like the type used in the F-body, does not have this as part of its design. It has to be manually adjusted by means of the start adjuster and/or the cable tension on the praking brake handle/mechanism itself.

Sneakyws6 has written an adjustment procedure that should work just fine. And to expound on this a little more:

If the gap between the adjuster nut and screw exceeds 0.25" (5mm) during the adjustment procedure the brake shoe needs to be replaced. Adjust the P-brake shoe to drum clearence to 0.015" (0.38mm).

When you install the wheels, only finger tighten the lugs. Cycle the brake lever three or four times and then check the rotor for drag. If there is drag present recheck and adjust the shoe to drum clearence.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 03:10 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by kenkaru
am I an idiot or is this for real?


no it worked on my 94 grand am with rear drum brakes.
I didn't know if it would work with rear disc brakes.
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Old Sep 9, 2006 | 03:31 PM
  #27  
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what would it mean when i'm setting the parking brake and sometimes the lever will skipp teeth, it'll sound like a wratchet clicking, when it makes the wratchet sound it skips over the teeth and usually i have have to redo it and it will work.


**just some food for the mind**
btw inside the tranny there is a parking pawl/gear in the auto's that hold the car in place when your in park, somtimes if your violent enough it'll snap the tooth and wont hold the car anymore, the parking brakes were put there to be used to apply the brakes when you park to save that pawl/gear in the back of the tranny from breakin on you. imagine putting the car in park and it not hold and just moving around like it's in nutral!!

this isnt the 4l60E tranny (it has one though) but it gives you an idea of what i'm talking about looks like
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 01:42 AM
  #28  
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if i pull the ebrake only it sucks at slowing down and just makes a loud screech. What i do it tap the regular brake first then pull it as i let off the regular brake that cause them to lock up and slide Its a fun way u can pull 180s or straightline slides . Try it that way i think it will work but u need to be going faster than 10 mph to get it to slide for more than a few feet i usually do it at 30 or 40 mph. Btw 02 SS A4
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 10:19 PM
  #29  
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mine does the exact same thing. doesnt hold well, points straight up and skips teeth. does the whole assembly need to be replaced, does it just need to be adjusted or do i need new pads for it?
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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i gotta adjust the parkin brake on the camaro bad. my dad is bad about leavin it engaged for a sec when takin off.
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Old Sep 12, 2006 | 11:11 PM
  #31  
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I just adjusted mine last night. I knew I needed to do it but I could only adjust the pass. side because the adjuster on the driver side was messed up. It wouldn't spin. I had to buy a new assembly to get just that small part but its a lot better now. I still want to do some final adjusting to get it right but its a ton better.

FYI the directions on page 1 are dead on but the direction that you need to spin the adjuster on each side is opposite from what's posted.
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 06:09 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ninobrn99
mine does the exact same thing. doesnt hold well, points straight up and skips teeth. does the whole assembly need to be replaced, does it just need to be adjusted or do i need new pads for it?
first time that happened to me it hought i broke it! lol
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Old Sep 13, 2006 | 06:57 AM
  #33  
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I have found that mine "skips teeth" when you pull the handle slightly towards the driver and up. If the handle is pulled up more on the passenger side, it grabs a lot better. It still needs to be adjusted, but I guess from the previous owner grabbing the handle and pulling it towards himself, it eventually took a toll on the ebrake. I have a full detail session scheduled on saturday, then top fuelers on sunday, so hopefully one night this week I can tackle the adjustment.

Andy
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 12:44 AM
  #34  
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thanks for the info on the ebrake. I am having an issue trying to get a rotor back on that was just taken off. The odd thing is that the rotor came off with no problem. Not sure how it changed when the car didnt ever move ??
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 01:11 AM
  #35  
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man i got the opposite problem, damn thing is like trying to rip a tire to engage it
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 03:09 PM
  #36  
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The "drum in hat" design on f-bodies isn't meant to be an emergency brake, it is a parking brake that is meant to hold the vehicle from rolling on a level surface. Parking/Emergency brake cables are also capable of stretching if they are consistantly pulled too hard. Also if your center console has ever been removed your ratchet mechanism for the emergency brake could be damaged causing it to skip teeth. Part of removing the center console is using something to "pry" and hold back the piece that contacts the teeth so that the handle can be angled in a better direction without engaging the brake. I've heard of the backing up a couple feet to adjust the parking brake but I've never tried it.
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 07:17 PM
  #37  
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is this the same for lt-1's.i know the brakes are different.
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Old Nov 23, 2006 | 07:35 PM
  #38  
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Mine sucks as well. My car will roll forwards with the e-brake handle facing the sky on the slightest of grades. However, it won't roll backwards at all. What's up with that??
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Old Nov 24, 2006 | 07:21 PM
  #39  
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FYI, if you guys want to keep the e=brake from shooting up (when it skips the ratchet) just hold the release button in as you pull it up. When you have it all the way up release the button. I've been doing that for a couple of years now out of habit and it has never shot up since. It used to do it somewhat frequently before I changed my habit.
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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this worked very good for me thanks alot guys
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