ABS INOP, ASR Off, and BRAKE lights on
01-20-2007, 08:37 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by 98Camarod
It is because of the tires in my situation. The lights are not on when you start the car it just comes on after driving a few miles. I have the ABS inop and BRAKE light on.
Ya know...this would be really weird, but my tires are REALLY bald. I wonder if the size difference is doing this?!
01-21-2007, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Billy_B4C
Ya think? The lights frequently "pulse" at times. Maybe i've got TOO much alternator...I think that it still has the OK Highway Patrol alternator (B4C). That's a fairly expensive "let's change that and see if it works" method, though. I'll just have to give it a shot, though. Thanks for your post and if anyone else has any ideas, pls let me know! 
01-21-2007, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by meangreen94z
The Amp rating of an Alternator wont make a difference(unless it undersized for the vehicle). A properly working alternator will only provide as much amperage as the car/battery draws. You would know if the alternator wasnt charging(car would possibly die, etc.), but if the voltage regulator on the alternator goes bad it can lead to the alternator overcharging. The charging voltage should not exceed 14.8V. If it jumps over that than you know you have an issue.
02-12-2007, 11:17 AM
#24
Originally Posted by Billy_B4C
Today my ABS INOP, ASR Off, and my BRAKE light came on all at the same time. I've done nothing at all to wheels, suspension, brakes. Just driving along and all three of those lights came on at once. Any ideas on what could have caused that?
Update: This is intermittent. Sometimes I start the car and the lights are off, but they all come on after a few miles. Sometimes they are already on when I start the car, and they stay on.
Update: This is intermittent. Sometimes I start the car and the lights are off, but they all come on after a few miles. Sometimes they are already on when I start the car, and they stay on.
02-12-2007, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 95formulalt1
i had the ABS INOP light came on when i first got the car. the problem was low fuild in the rear end. top it off !! now its fine!!!
Hmm...that's a thought. I'll give that a look, thanks!
02-12-2007, 10:26 PM
#26
If your ABS lamp is illuminating, your system is not working, at that point...ABS is dead weight and is taking up un-necessary space and your brake bias it not being controlled.
We've got a kit to completely remove ABS and give you the ability to correctly bias the brakes from the use of a proportioning valve (right now you have no bias adjustment or control since ABS is not working...so this is a very good tuning tool to have).
If you don't care about removing weight, cleaning up the engine bay and having controllability over your brake bias, just leave it all alone, remove the bulbs and call it a day...the only other option you have is to possibly spend quite a bit of time/money trying to troubleshoot it to one-day again having to re-visit the same problems. What you're seeing is VERY common with the F-bodies cars, sometimes it is a dirty sensor…many times it is not.
Good luck with your car:-)
We've got a kit to completely remove ABS and give you the ability to correctly bias the brakes from the use of a proportioning valve (right now you have no bias adjustment or control since ABS is not working...so this is a very good tuning tool to have).
If you don't care about removing weight, cleaning up the engine bay and having controllability over your brake bias, just leave it all alone, remove the bulbs and call it a day...the only other option you have is to possibly spend quite a bit of time/money trying to troubleshoot it to one-day again having to re-visit the same problems. What you're seeing is VERY common with the F-bodies cars, sometimes it is a dirty sensor…many times it is not.
Good luck with your car:-)
02-13-2007, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
If your ABS lamp is illuminating, your system is not working, at that point...ABS is dead weight and is taking up un-necessary space and your brake bias it not being controlled.
We've got a kit to completely remove ABS and give you the ability to correctly bias the brakes from the use of a proportioning valve (right now you have no bias adjustment or control since ABS is not working...so this is a very good tuning tool to have).
If you don't care about removing weight, cleaning up the engine bay and having controllability over your brake bias, just leave it all alone, remove the bulbs and call it a day...the only other option you have is to possibly spend quite a bit of time/money trying to troubleshoot it to one-day again having to re-visit the same problems. What you're seeing is VERY common with the F-bodies cars, sometimes it is a dirty sensor…many times it is not.
Good luck with your car:-)
We've got a kit to completely remove ABS and give you the ability to correctly bias the brakes from the use of a proportioning valve (right now you have no bias adjustment or control since ABS is not working...so this is a very good tuning tool to have).
If you don't care about removing weight, cleaning up the engine bay and having controllability over your brake bias, just leave it all alone, remove the bulbs and call it a day...the only other option you have is to possibly spend quite a bit of time/money trying to troubleshoot it to one-day again having to re-visit the same problems. What you're seeing is VERY common with the F-bodies cars, sometimes it is a dirty sensor…many times it is not.
Good luck with your car:-)
02-13-2007, 07:15 AM
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This is an electrical problem, period. I just had this the other day. Battery was too low to crank the car, but those same lights cam on for me, and flashed too. Haven't had them on while driving because after jumping the car they went off, but in my case it was purely electrical. I'd think your tech was on the right track.
02-13-2007, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
This is an electrical problem, period. I just had this the other day. Battery was too low to crank the car, but those same lights cam on for me, and flashed too. Haven't had them on while driving because after jumping the car they went off, but in my case it was purely electrical. I'd think your tech was on the right track.
I tend to agree. He's saying that it is probably my alternator. Specifically, the voltage regulator within the alternator. I may try that and see if it cures it.
02-13-2007, 01:27 PM
#31
Billy, you're welcome. ABS and TCS may be working but only when your lamp is not activated. Only way I can see it the circuit working correctly would be if the lamp circuit is shorted which is not effecting the actual function of the circuit.
With due respect, I don't feel my approach is a napalm cure as you stated. It is a cost effective (and time effective) solution which has more benefits rather then negative effects.
I wish you luck.
With due respect, I don't feel my approach is a napalm cure as you stated. It is a cost effective (and time effective) solution which has more benefits rather then negative effects.
I wish you luck.
02-13-2007, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
With due respect, I don't feel my approach is a napalm cure as you stated. It is a cost effective (and time effective) solution which has more benefits rather then negative effects.
I wish you luck.
I wish you luck.
02-13-2007, 02:57 PM
#33
I see your point. My comments are not to argue with you:-). If you need it, then I'd advise not removing it.
A/C is more of a necessity and used quite often in most warm climates. Many folks never use ABS, or have even felt pulsing in their brakes. If you removed it, you'd feel no difference in normal driving. Actually, improvements can be felt in some circumstances since you've got the ability to adjust brake bias now to your setup.
A/C is more of a necessity and used quite often in most warm climates. Many folks never use ABS, or have even felt pulsing in their brakes. If you removed it, you'd feel no difference in normal driving. Actually, improvements can be felt in some circumstances since you've got the ability to adjust brake bias now to your setup.
02-13-2007, 03:39 PM
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damn ive had this problem also, but only when i put my slicks on. the abs light goes on the e-brake light goes on and my abs doesnt work.. i guess im going to check the fluid and those sensors, hopefully its that. i hate seeing so many damn lights on when i have them on
02-13-2007, 04:28 PM
#35
If you're running different diameter tires, ABS will not function correctly or not at all. Reason #10 why removing ABS is a good idea.
Like mentioned, removing these non-essential components which do not effect normal braking leaves less headaches in the end. I'd compare this modification to deleting your EGR circuit regarding usefulness to the driver.
I know our kit does not solve the issue of repairing ABS, but when a system does not function adequate and help you...is there really any use of retaining it?
Like mentioned, removing these non-essential components which do not effect normal braking leaves less headaches in the end. I'd compare this modification to deleting your EGR circuit regarding usefulness to the driver.
I know our kit does not solve the issue of repairing ABS, but when a system does not function adequate and help you...is there really any use of retaining it?
02-13-2007, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
I see your point. My comments are not to argue with you:-). If you need it, then I'd advise not removing it.
...just a bit of a debate.
Originally Posted by SJM Manufacturing Inc
A/C is more of a necessity and used quite often in most warm climates. Many folks never use ABS, or have even felt pulsing in their brakes. If you removed it, you'd feel no difference in normal driving. Actually, improvements can be felt in some circumstances since you've got the ability to adjust brake bias now to your setup.
