I know many guys have been through this so after your experiences with setting up your TA's, what would be a good starting point for pinion angle on a 99 bolt-on F-body? I have the Spohn TA, LCA's, PHB, air bags and I want to run it hard at the track on weekends so a track setup that doesn't make driving on the street evil is what I am looking for. I will be launching on 11" Nitto DR's.

Thanks in advance.

 

-2 degrees. I did that with bolt on's and kept it now that I'm making more power. Works for me.

 

Yup, that is where it is at, nose down 2 degrees. two race shops and Spohn all said the same thing, thanks for the come back.

 

make it a 3rd...

-2 angle here and street drive it like that

 

Ok, so standing behind the vehicle and refrencing the front of the rear end....

1). do I want the rear end pointing down towards the front tires

or

2). do I want the rear end pointing up towards the sky?

 

Good question, I'm interested to hear.

 

There was a good article that I cant seem to find on here about pinion angle.

Is the pinion supposed to be facing down -2 degrees towards the front of the car or up towards the sky? Is it supposed to make a 'V' or a '^' in some sense?

From what I have heard, is that the pinion should be facing down towards the front of the vehicle -2 degrees in relation to the d/s.

 

-2 degrees here.

It's pretty simple actually. At perfect level looking at the car from the passenger side imagine a line going through the yoke at perfect level. That is 0 degrees. Rotate that line to -2 degrees, so turn the yoke toward the ground 2 degrees. The reason you go negative is because the torque is going to rotate the yoke upward and when at WOT you want the yoke at 0 degrees for the best transfer of power.

If anyone can come up with an easier explaination please do.

 

Thanks for confirming that Firebird!

Thats what I have been doing, setting the yoke on the rear to point down towards the front of the car at a specified angle, whether it be -2 or -3.

 

-3* (3 degrees down) is the most common starting point for cars without a torque arm. I think the way the torque arm controls movement of the diff is the reason why less negative pre-load is required for TA setups but I'm guessing. Remember that is only a starting point. Your power levels, type of tire, amount of tire spin, suspension deflection can all require you to move from your starting point a 1/2 degree or so to get your best 60fts, but I am familar with that process and will experiment a little at the track to see where I end up but I appreciate the feedback.

Sunday will be the first track day for me, any bets as to how fast I can get this stock powered/HP Tuned by mE full weight 99SS down the track with the 4.10's and some rear suspension mods. I'm shooting for low 13's but nothing would surprise me. I will have to bog and roll with the stock clutch and stock M/C but that should only give up a 10th or two.

 

I'd say with your mods and cool air you should be at 12.9 or so. I wouldn't be surprised if you had a better time. I can run 13.1, 13.2 all day with the tires spinning and hoping. You have a steeper gear and more traction. Plus the 6spd will help.

 

that is fast as fruk for a stock motor setup. I see dudes at the track that strap blowers on Stang GT's or pump 22psi into expensive downpiped STi's to run 12.8-12.9's. Yup, I think I made the right choice snapping this up when I got the chance.

The only thing I'm a little apprehensive about is the hydraulic clutch before I have a chance to set it up better, wish it was a cable instead.

movies, .... of course!

 

isnt the stock angle for stock ride height -2? i read that on the desrciption for the UMI adj TA.