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Steering shaft linkage question and problem..

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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:42 AM
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Default Steering shaft linkage question and problem..

Does anyone know where the plastic pin is in the linkage thats supposed to break on an impact? I have some problems that Ive been chasing my tail on. I installed a turbo kit and the turbo is infront of the PS pump and after about 5 minutes of driving, I can clock the wheel between 11 and 1 o'clock and nothing happens, like air in the lines. Ive wrapped every line, put an external PS cooler on the line, moved some lines and I still cant figure out the problem. Its fine when cold and it only happens after about 5 minutes of driving. The longer I drive, the worse it gets. Ive heard that if this plastic pin melts that it can cause this problem. Any ideas? The fluid doesnt seem to be getting hot because it isnt hot when I touch it.... also, it looks like there is fluid getting out the top of the resivor and when I open the cap, its pressureized. It sounds like opening a soda with the psssst sound.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:33 PM
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Look on the end that attaches to the colum and you will see a section that looks like it slides in and out.

About half way up, on the flat, you will see a small circle, about teh size of a pencil lead. That's the shear pin.

But because the 2 sections that fit together are flat/oval shaped, the shaft can't twist inside of itself.

I would suspect either the pressure bypass valve is sticking or the rack is shot.

The bypass valve is located on the pump where the HP line attaches. Unscrew the line, and there is a hex surface machined into the pump and it comes out. Behind it is some valving and a spring. Be careful ... the spring is compressed.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:41 PM
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so the sheer pin is on the section closest to the firewall... Theres nothing wrong with any of that. Its not even near the headers

With the PS cap off and when i turn the wheel, can the fluid be seen moving?
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 05:13 PM
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yessir
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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Update.. it was the linkage. The bottom joint closest to the rack.. it goes into a plastic dampener (SP?? and then into the U joint instead of the old rag joint.. well, all the plastic stuff melted out and caused the shaft to wobble inside. I have pics I can post..
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