InstallUniversity.com Brake Guide - No Brake Lube?
11-03-2006, 09:53 AM
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InstallUniversity.com Brake Guide - No Brake Lube? I plan on changing the brakes on my 02 WS6 this weekend, following the guide from InstallUniversity.com. I noticed that they didn't mention anything about using synthetic brake lube in their guide, but after reading through posts on this forum I've seen several instances where people have been told to use synthetic brake lube on the bushing pins to reduce squeal.
Going off of the InstallUniversity.com guide, at which step should the brake lube be applied? I mean, where exactly are the bushing pins that need the lube? Also, should the lube be applied to the back of the pads?
I picked up Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads today at the TireRack (it's near my house). Other than thread locker, is there anything else I should pick up tonight before trying to tackle this tomorrow? (yes, I have all of the necessary tools according to the InstallUniversity.com guide).
Going off of the InstallUniversity.com guide, at which step should the brake lube be applied? I mean, where exactly are the bushing pins that need the lube? Also, should the lube be applied to the back of the pads?
I picked up Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads today at the TireRack (it's near my house). Other than thread locker, is there anything else I should pick up tonight before trying to tackle this tomorrow? (yes, I have all of the necessary tools according to the InstallUniversity.com guide).
Last edited by Rybo Flavin; 11-03-2006 at 10:03 AM.
11-03-2006, 11:09 AM
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DO NOT put any ANYWHERE on you brake pads!
For some reason they do not lube the slider (bushing) pins in the install university guide.
The pins can be removed and lubed as soon as you remove the caliper. The pins are what you remove the bolts from that hold the caliper on the mounting bracket. Figure 4 in the install guide shows the open end wrench holding the "flat" on the pin behind the rubber seal. The pin just slides out of the mounting bracket and the seal should pop right off with it (or stay on the mounting bracket, either way it snaps on and off really easily).
With the pin out, just wipe all the old lube off really good and put a light coating of fresh lube over the whole thing then slide it back in the mounting bracket making sure the rubber seal is fully seating on the pin and the bracket (just make it look like it did before you took it out). You do not want any lube squeezing out of the seal with the pin reinstalled (that's too much lube). Wipe any excess lube off the pin and seal and you are done.
There are two pins per caliper. Its really easy and self explanitory once you are working on it. I have had one of these seize up on me and its no fun to try to get it back off. Keeping them lubed will prevent this and make sure your calipers move freely.
Good luck
For some reason they do not lube the slider (bushing) pins in the install university guide.
The pins can be removed and lubed as soon as you remove the caliper. The pins are what you remove the bolts from that hold the caliper on the mounting bracket. Figure 4 in the install guide shows the open end wrench holding the "flat" on the pin behind the rubber seal. The pin just slides out of the mounting bracket and the seal should pop right off with it (or stay on the mounting bracket, either way it snaps on and off really easily).
With the pin out, just wipe all the old lube off really good and put a light coating of fresh lube over the whole thing then slide it back in the mounting bracket making sure the rubber seal is fully seating on the pin and the bracket (just make it look like it did before you took it out). You do not want any lube squeezing out of the seal with the pin reinstalled (that's too much lube). Wipe any excess lube off the pin and seal and you are done.
There are two pins per caliper. Its really easy and self explanitory once you are working on it. I have had one of these seize up on me and its no fun to try to get it back off. Keeping them lubed will prevent this and make sure your calipers move freely.
Good luck
11-03-2006, 11:47 AM
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T-hawk, thanks for the most excellent explanation. This is exactly what I needed to know.
What about the pink goop that you can put on the back of the pads, should I use that to prevent squeal? Doesn't it provide some kind of buffer between the pad and the bracket?
What about the pink goop that you can put on the back of the pads, should I use that to prevent squeal? Doesn't it provide some kind of buffer between the pad and the bracket?
11-03-2006, 11:54 AM
#4
Originally Posted by T-hawk
DO NOT put any ANYWHERE on you brake pads!
Originally Posted by Rybo Flavin
What about the pink goop that you can put on the back of the pads, should I use that to prevent squeal? Doesn't it provide some kind of buffer between the pad and the bracket?
11-03-2006, 02:54 PM
#5
I wrote that install guide in '98 when no one was having any problems with guide pin siezure. The document belongs to that site's owner, not me.
And everyone is right ... guide pins need maintenance too.
To add to what T-Hawk said, if you notice, the guide pin has 3 flat sides. After cleaning, I run a small bead about 2/3s the way up the guide pin. And then slowly insert the pin back into the PAB, spinning the pin as you go. This will work the grease down into the PAB.
HTH
And everyone is right ... guide pins need maintenance too.
To add to what T-Hawk said, if you notice, the guide pin has 3 flat sides. After cleaning, I run a small bead about 2/3s the way up the guide pin. And then slowly insert the pin back into the PAB, spinning the pin as you go. This will work the grease down into the PAB.
HTH
11-03-2006, 04:10 PM
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When I do brakes I use the anit-seize (silver color) on the back of my pads. The stuff you can't get off. It is high temp and will not come off in water. This just help the pad from squealing. Another suggestion is to champ the edges of the pads at a 45 degree where you don't have two surfaces touching at a perfect 90 degrees.
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11-03-2006, 11:49 PM
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While you have it all apart it might be a good idea to replace the seals on the pins. If they are perfect that's great, no problem. But if they are beat up replace them. I got them at NAPA, about $10 for a pack of four.
11-04-2006, 04:53 PM
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I completed the brake change on all four wheels today with no problems at all thanks to everyone's advice. I even went so far as to follow a guide I found in another thread and I flushed out all of the old brake fluid and replaced it with Valvoline Syn Power brake fluid. Then I went out and drove and "bedded" the new pads and rotors together. The Brembo blank rotors and Hawk TPS pads have an excellent feel, great improvement over the OEM.
10-15-2007, 09:28 PM
#11
I wrote that install guide in '98 when no one was having any problems with guide pin siezure. The document belongs to that site's owner, not me.
And everyone is right ... guide pins need maintenance too.
To add to what T-Hawk said, if you notice, the guide pin has 3 flat sides. After cleaning, I run a small bead about 2/3s the way up the guide pin. And then slowly insert the pin back into the PAB, spinning the pin as you go. This will work the grease down into the PAB.
HTH
And everyone is right ... guide pins need maintenance too.
To add to what T-Hawk said, if you notice, the guide pin has 3 flat sides. After cleaning, I run a small bead about 2/3s the way up the guide pin. And then slowly insert the pin back into the PAB, spinning the pin as you go. This will work the grease down into the PAB.
HTH
Wether you like it or not, we're in it together. 
And what is up with acting like you don't like me anymore? Do I smell that bad?? 
10-15-2007, 10:23 PM
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I think a little clarification is in order.
1) Stock and most street performance pads come with some sort of soft metal and/or plastic anti-squeal shim glued to the backing plate. Most of us involved in any sort of competitive or HPDE driving (including several participants in this thread) have learned to remove those shims. In aggressive braking, they just tear loose and end up in a crumpled ball at one end of the pad.
2) The pink stuff sold in autoparts store is an adhesive.
3) There's also a pinkish-purple brake grease known as Ceram-Lub or Cerami-Lub. I've seen both, and I've seen it sold under several brands including Bendix. It has a very high solids content and stays put well.
If you aren't tearing the shims off the back of the pads in your normal driving, you probably don't need to put grease or adhesive on the back. The soft shims are doing the job. If chasing a persistant squeal though, the adhesive might help some.
If you do remove the shims, the adhesive might help for moderately aggressive driving, but it won't take severe abuse, and it makes servicing the brakes a pain. Been there, done that. I prefer to grease them. I haven't tried the green stuff on the back of pads, but Ceram-Lub works well. As Kevin said, a little goes a long way. Don't glop it on. I prefer to apply a thin coat to the areas of the caliper that touch the pad backing plates instead of trying to grease the backing plates directly. Spread it thin.
If you don't peel the shims off the pads, I wouldn't use the grease over the shims.
In either case, I would liberally grease the pins and lightly grease the pad backing plate ends where they rub across the anti-rattle spring clips. I've used both Ceram-lub and the green stuff for this. I think the Ceram-Lub holds up better, though it may not be as slippery.
Of course, you must be very careful that nothing (not even your fingers) touches the brake pad friction material.
1) Stock and most street performance pads come with some sort of soft metal and/or plastic anti-squeal shim glued to the backing plate. Most of us involved in any sort of competitive or HPDE driving (including several participants in this thread) have learned to remove those shims. In aggressive braking, they just tear loose and end up in a crumpled ball at one end of the pad.
2) The pink stuff sold in autoparts store is an adhesive.
3) There's also a pinkish-purple brake grease known as Ceram-Lub or Cerami-Lub. I've seen both, and I've seen it sold under several brands including Bendix. It has a very high solids content and stays put well.
If you aren't tearing the shims off the back of the pads in your normal driving, you probably don't need to put grease or adhesive on the back. The soft shims are doing the job. If chasing a persistant squeal though, the adhesive might help some.
If you do remove the shims, the adhesive might help for moderately aggressive driving, but it won't take severe abuse, and it makes servicing the brakes a pain. Been there, done that. I prefer to grease them. I haven't tried the green stuff on the back of pads, but Ceram-Lub works well. As Kevin said, a little goes a long way. Don't glop it on. I prefer to apply a thin coat to the areas of the caliper that touch the pad backing plates instead of trying to grease the backing plates directly. Spread it thin.
If you don't peel the shims off the pads, I wouldn't use the grease over the shims.
In either case, I would liberally grease the pins and lightly grease the pad backing plate ends where they rub across the anti-rattle spring clips. I've used both Ceram-lub and the green stuff for this. I think the Ceram-Lub holds up better, though it may not be as slippery.
Of course, you must be very careful that nothing (not even your fingers) touches the brake pad friction material.
Last edited by sgarnett; 10-16-2007 at 06:51 AM.
10-16-2007, 02:18 AM
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I picked up Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads today at the TireRack (it's near my house). Other than thread locker, is there anything else I should pick up tonight before trying to tackle this tomorrow? (yes, I have all of the necessary tools according to the InstallUniversity.com guide).
Where around here do you live? I live in Lakeville and work in La Porte.
10-16-2007, 09:06 AM
#14
... and a shower wouldn't do any harm ... 
Points to ponder from the IU site ...
I don't own that car any more. A sad day, but my interests have evolved.
My shop will NEVER be that clean again.
Need to add a step between #10 and #11.
Lubricate the guide pins with a high temp grease. Make sure the rubber dust boots have no tears or rips. Replace the pins/boots if necessary. They are available at most any chain auto parts store.
If the guide pins are siezed in the abutment bracket and you cannot get them out with a wrench, you should consider purchasing a new abutment bracket and guide pins. Heating the bracket will change the metallugy of the bracket ... the bracket that holds your brakes in place!
Don't take chances and cut corners with your brakes.
In the caliper rebuild section ...
A loaded, reman caliper is about $35 from chain auto parts stores. It comes with rebuilt calipers, new aboutment bracket, guide pins, boots and cheap pads.
The rebuild kits required are over $20 a side. So, what's the point ...
10-16-2007, 09:16 AM
#15
Where the hell have you been? ... and a shower wouldn't do any harm ...
Points to ponder from the IU site ...
I don't own that car any more. A sad day, but my interests have evolved.
My shop will NEVER be that clean again.
Need to add a step between #10 and #11.
Lubricate the guide pins with a high temp grease. Make sure the rubber dust boots have no tears or rips. Replace the pins/boots if necessary. They are available at most any chain auto parts store.
If the guide pins are siezed in the abutment bracket and you cannot get them out with a wrench, you should consider purchasing a new abutment bracket and guide pins. Heating the bracket will change the metallugy of the bracket ... the bracket that holds your brakes in place!
Don't take chances and cut corners with your brakes.
In the caliper rebuild section ...
A loaded, reman caliper is about $35 from chain auto parts stores. It comes with rebuilt calipers, new aboutment bracket, guide pins, boots and cheap pads.
The rebuild kits required are over $20 a side. So, what's the point ...
... and a shower wouldn't do any harm ... Points to ponder from the IU site ...
I don't own that car any more. A sad day, but my interests have evolved.
My shop will NEVER be that clean again.
Need to add a step between #10 and #11.
Lubricate the guide pins with a high temp grease. Make sure the rubber dust boots have no tears or rips. Replace the pins/boots if necessary. They are available at most any chain auto parts store.
If the guide pins are siezed in the abutment bracket and you cannot get them out with a wrench, you should consider purchasing a new abutment bracket and guide pins. Heating the bracket will change the metallugy of the bracket ... the bracket that holds your brakes in place!
Don't take chances and cut corners with your brakes.
In the caliper rebuild section ...
A loaded, reman caliper is about $35 from chain auto parts stores. It comes with rebuilt calipers, new aboutment bracket, guide pins, boots and cheap pads.
The rebuild kits required are over $20 a side. So, what's the point ...
I'll take that shower tonight...
