Options to correct camber
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Options to correct camber Well, I installed an Eibach Pro kit on my 94Z.
I'm working on the alignment right now, and I seem to be out of adjustability on the front lower control arm. I have the OTC 7840 tool, makes it a snap to move the LCA around and keep it there. I've got the front bolt sucked all the way in. No mas.
My caster/camber gauge setup isn't here yet, but I'm just out messing around in the shop right now. I still have visible obvious negative camber (even with my carpenters' bubble gauge laid against the wheel). Probably at least 1 degree if not more. The rear LCA bolt is sucked in all the way too. I think I'm as far as the factory adjustments will go. Which way would you go:
-slot the hole inwards ~1/8" to get a little more adjustment out of it (easily done, I have ample tools)
-Adjustable lower control arms, a la Spohn
-Adjustable upper control arms, a la UMI
Thanks for any ideas.
I'm working on the alignment right now, and I seem to be out of adjustability on the front lower control arm. I have the OTC 7840 tool, makes it a snap to move the LCA around and keep it there. I've got the front bolt sucked all the way in. No mas.
My caster/camber gauge setup isn't here yet, but I'm just out messing around in the shop right now. I still have visible obvious negative camber (even with my carpenters' bubble gauge laid against the wheel). Probably at least 1 degree if not more. The rear LCA bolt is sucked in all the way too. I think I'm as far as the factory adjustments will go. Which way would you go:
-slot the hole inwards ~1/8" to get a little more adjustment out of it (easily done, I have ample tools)
-Adjustable lower control arms, a la Spohn
-Adjustable upper control arms, a la UMI
Thanks for any ideas.
being an alginment tech ,there is nothing aftermarket to correct caster/camber that i know of if you are out of adjustment's with your control arm..i would assume aftermarket adjustable lower control arm would be your only help .i have never had the chance to use those yet..but as far as hunter,spc,splicer, moog ,etc...they do not offer any aftermarket correction kits....hope this help's clint...........
Originally Posted by Camaroholic
-slot the hole inwards ~1/8" to get a little more adjustment out of it (easily done, I have ample tools)
Thanks for any ideas.
I slotted the outer section of the K-Member in order to get MORE negative camber. I run close to -2* on the race car.
-1* is not that much ...
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From: Waco, TX
Can't discount that as a possibility. The knuckles / spindles looked OK, but they are LS1 units purchased from a junkyard (went for the dual piston LS1 front brakes). I didn't see the car they came out of, as a buddy got them for me.
I'm just guessing right now, I have a camber gauge on the way. I'm going to try tweaking the other side to see how it pans out. I know my car has never been wrecked (I've owned since new), but the knuckle history is unknown. I've got the lower control arms from my 98 in a box here, they look the same except no grease zert on the ball joint.
I did do some searching, found a few threads detailing this problem, but they seemed to be running more drop than I am. Weird. Anyhoo, thanks.
I'm just guessing right now, I have a camber gauge on the way. I'm going to try tweaking the other side to see how it pans out. I know my car has never been wrecked (I've owned since new), but the knuckle history is unknown. I've got the lower control arms from my 98 in a box here, they look the same except no grease zert on the ball joint.
I did do some searching, found a few threads detailing this problem, but they seemed to be running more drop than I am. Weird. Anyhoo, thanks.
I'm guessing you're trying to get it back to 0 camber (like the factory spec)? Don't bother. Set both sides at -1 camber, 4.5 castor and 0 toe and all will be well. You can't get back to the factory specs on a lowered car in most cases, and you really don't want to. I got 30K miles out of my front tires running -1.3 camber, 4.5 castor and 0 toe. And, it will handle better.
Besides, when spindles bend, they usually bend for less camber and not more (meaning, it would probably go back to stock specs, I've seen a couple that we bent pretty badly). So, I doubt that's it, unless I misread your first post.
Just my thoughts.
Besides, when spindles bend, they usually bend for less camber and not more (meaning, it would probably go back to stock specs, I've seen a couple that we bent pretty badly). So, I doubt that's it, unless I misread your first post.
Just my thoughts.
Probably a dumb question, but you do have the suspension loaded and on camber plates before measuring, right?
If you don't have plates, you can roll the car back and forth a bit to unload any bind on the tires or bushings.
If you don't have plates, you can roll the car back and forth a bit to unload any bind on the tires or bushings.
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I do have the car on the ground, and for 'plates', I've got a thin plate of steel on the floor, with a thin layer of sand under the plate (act as mini-bearings). The tires move pretty easily with those.
And yes, I was trying to approach 0 camber. Once I get my gauge (got a Longacre billet unit on the way), I'll be able to get an actual measurement. For now, I'm just eyeballing it, so any 'angle' I'm saying right now is just a guess.
And yes, I was trying to approach 0 camber. Once I get my gauge (got a Longacre billet unit on the way), I'll be able to get an actual measurement. For now, I'm just eyeballing it, so any 'angle' I'm saying right now is just a guess.
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I wouldn't run 0 camber. -.7 to -1.0 work very well for street use and the extra handling is a benefit. I'd match it up at the minimum if you'd like (I wouldn't, for me, I'd run more camber than that, but if you want to stay minimal). If one side does -.4 and the other -.6, I'd set them at -.6 and be on your way if you're trying to keep the camber numbers low.
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Well, if it works anywhere near as well as it looks, that oughta be worth something. This gauge looks very nice. Gonna head out back and make a couple measurements.
Nice case was included too.
This gauge looks very nice. Gonna head out back and make a couple measurements.Nice case was included too.
I had to lenghten the slots inward, on my '96 Z-28 in order to obtain "0" camber after installing a set of Eibach pro kit springs. Yes, the car was only a couple of months old when this was done, and no, it hadn't been wrecked, curbed, or anything else. There just isn't enough adjustability with the stock length slots.
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I'm still going to 'work' some more with my new gauge (making sure the car is level, settled, and all that, and making sure that the surfaces I'm putting the gauge against are proper), but preliminary readings last night indicated that the side I've tweaked is at -.6 degrees camber, and the side I haven't tweaked is -1.1 degrees camber. I'm going to see if I can get both sides to -.6 and evaluate how she does. I don't have any prior alignment experience 
but this is the way I learn, and I figure that with as many cars as I have, the technique will pay for itself (and I flat out don't trust anyone but me to work on my cars).
but this is the way I learn, and I figure that with as many cars as I have, the technique will pay for itself (and I flat out don't trust anyone but me to work on my cars).
Originally Posted by trackbird
Right, but why would anyone try that hard to run 0 camber?
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Because a lot of negative camber, while aiding cornering, will quickly wear out tires on a daily driver.
My car is a daily driver, I ran -1.3 for several years and I ran -1.2 for several years on my 3rd gen. I now run -1.7 and drive it daily. Tire wear increases a good bit as you push beyond the -1.3 range and that's also based on experience.
I still wouldn't suggest that anyone should work that hard to get back to 0, take the lowest setting that it will allow (matching both sides), but not 0.
Originally Posted by mitchntx
TB ... do you ever stop and ask yourself ... "Why did I even post?"
Originally Posted by trackbird
Yea, I'd even quit for a while, but I'm some combination of stupid, hard headed and a glutton for punishment I guess because I came back.
Originally Posted by trackbird
I'm guessing you're trying to get it back to 0 camber (like the factory spec)? Don't bother. Set both sides at -1 camber, 4.5 castor and 0 toe and all will be well. You can't get back to the factory specs on a lowered car in most cases, and you really don't want to. I got 30K miles out of my front tires running -1.3 camber, 4.5 castor and 0 toe. And, it will handle better.
Besides, when spindles bend, they usually bend for less camber and not more (meaning, it would probably go back to stock specs, I've seen a couple that we bent pretty badly). So, I doubt that's it, unless I misread your first post.
Just my thoughts.
Besides, when spindles bend, they usually bend for less camber and not more (meaning, it would probably go back to stock specs, I've seen a couple that we bent pretty badly). So, I doubt that's it, unless I misread your first post.
Just my thoughts.
Originally Posted by MiaSSmaro98
i like the data u gave out
A quick search for "4.5 castor" shows these results:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/search.php?searchid=4283716
and (Searching for 4.5 caster):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/search.php?searchid=4283731
I know there are tons more threads on it, but those are a few that come up with a basic search.
It's the idea that we might help others that keep most of us coming back (Mitch, Foxxtron, myself and others). We've mostly done this stuff already, and we ask few questions because we've learned many things the expensive way. We don't know it all, but we are always willing to share our experiences in an effort to help when we can. And, worst case, we get a discussion going that brings new data in that we all learn from. And, if I can save someone else all the money I wasted buying the wrong crap, it's worth it.