Question/help on suspension for racing.
#41
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drag radials, or drag slicks, are typically run on smaller diameter rims (16s or less for our cars). the tires themselves have a larger, weaker sidewall. the idea is to crinkle the sidewall when launching. ever see top fuel dragsters on tv? when they launch, the rim twists inside the tire, with the contact patch seemingly stuck to the track. that give maximum traction at the line.
road race slicks are totally different. usually run on bigger diameter rims (17s up to 20s for us), and have a very short, stiffer sidewall. the low profile tires that we already have - 275/40/17 stock are an example. 40 is a short sidewall, and they get shorter for very high performance, large rims, like 30 and under. the idea behind this, is since road race cars have to turn with high g-forces, a large, weak sidewall will fold over itself in a hard turn, which in extreme cases can lead to a blowout, seperaton of the tire from rim, etc. a low profile with stiff sidewall will resist these high Gs, and stick to the ground more, rather then skidding or rolling over itself.
you should NEVER use a drag slick a road course. they don't have the sidewall stiffness needed for high g turns. i'd stay away from drag radials also. there are very few execptions however. i believe Nitto has a drag radial that uses the same carcass as their high performance tires, meaning it has the same sidewall stiffness, but a softer, shallow tread. that you can probably use on a road course or autox. some people on this board have also used tires like BFG drag radials on autox courses, with good results. i'd think they wouldnt have the sidewall to stand up to it, but if its already a 40 or 45 series, there isnt much sidewall to begin with. personally i'd prefer road race slicks or a high performance street tire over DRs on a track.
i really dont know what the ProKit rates are offhand. maybe they're posted at eibachs website? as a referance, the stock WS6 spring rates are: 292 front, 115 rear. Strano's are: 550 front, 150 rear. Huge differance in the front. 1LE springs are 360 front, and 170-180 rear, too much according to Sam. I think, I may be mistaken, that the prokits are around 300ish front, and over 150 rear, which is too much.
road race slicks are totally different. usually run on bigger diameter rims (17s up to 20s for us), and have a very short, stiffer sidewall. the low profile tires that we already have - 275/40/17 stock are an example. 40 is a short sidewall, and they get shorter for very high performance, large rims, like 30 and under. the idea behind this, is since road race cars have to turn with high g-forces, a large, weak sidewall will fold over itself in a hard turn, which in extreme cases can lead to a blowout, seperaton of the tire from rim, etc. a low profile with stiff sidewall will resist these high Gs, and stick to the ground more, rather then skidding or rolling over itself.
you should NEVER use a drag slick a road course. they don't have the sidewall stiffness needed for high g turns. i'd stay away from drag radials also. there are very few execptions however. i believe Nitto has a drag radial that uses the same carcass as their high performance tires, meaning it has the same sidewall stiffness, but a softer, shallow tread. that you can probably use on a road course or autox. some people on this board have also used tires like BFG drag radials on autox courses, with good results. i'd think they wouldnt have the sidewall to stand up to it, but if its already a 40 or 45 series, there isnt much sidewall to begin with. personally i'd prefer road race slicks or a high performance street tire over DRs on a track.
i really dont know what the ProKit rates are offhand. maybe they're posted at eibachs website? as a referance, the stock WS6 spring rates are: 292 front, 115 rear. Strano's are: 550 front, 150 rear. Huge differance in the front. 1LE springs are 360 front, and 170-180 rear, too much according to Sam. I think, I may be mistaken, that the prokits are around 300ish front, and over 150 rear, which is too much.
#44
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I wouldn't bother getting just rear tires. remember you're not competing, its a rented track, and youre just out there for fun and learning. getting track-only tires on spare rims is a good idea, but running something different on the rear may upset the balance of the car. maybe. i'd personally stick with one size, one brand for all 4. if you cant afford or dont want to get track tires, dont worry about it. theres no money or points on the line, just go out and have a nice time. if you get into actual competition, then you can get more specific on the tire/rim combo. i wont reiterate on why i would personally get track tires, but the final choice is up to you and your wallet. if you go with street tires, and do want to buy something, then id get the best performance tires you can afford. all seasons wont do as well on a dry track then summer performance tires would.
#45
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It is after January 11th and how did it go? I just came to the thread and read it with great interest.
I suppose the best advice given was to not do a darned thing until after your track day. Fix the nut behind the wheel first and than worry about the car.
First you are not going to be fast enough on street tires and with no experience to tax anything on the car.
See if you like it before you spend money. Hopefully you liked it.
Perry
I suppose the best advice given was to not do a darned thing until after your track day. Fix the nut behind the wheel first and than worry about the car.
First you are not going to be fast enough on street tires and with no experience to tax anything on the car.
See if you like it before you spend money. Hopefully you liked it.
Perry