Dude, just dump the clutch and move your left foot to the brake. No need to use your right foot on both pedals, even at first. If you have power, you'll be sitting still.

So what's some good brands for line locks?

 

It doesn't matter, M6 was gone a year ago.

 

??? You mean your m6 was gone a year ago? Does SLP make a good line lock? I generally dont buy SLP products but i cant think of anyone else that makes a line lock kit?

 

it doesnt really matter what brand you get, the solenoids look identical from Hurst, slp, and others.

 

i believe its SJM manufacturing, they have the one i will be gettin, they're a site sponsor i would look in to them

 

Thanks for your support. Our line lock electrical circuit is advanced, safer as well as track legal in comparison to the SLP circuit design. Our line lock setups have stood the test of time since 1996.

Differences between brand solenoids we carry is a moot point. All our solenoids used are rebuildable, they all hold ~3000psi and function almost identically the same. Why carry a variety then? Due to the fact that different people like different things. Some like the way one looks over another, some like brand loyalty etc.

Whether a transmission is an auto or manual has little bearing on the function of a line lock solenoid. The solenoid holds brake pressure to the fronts to lock the wheels. While you are heating up your tires, you are in control and will not walk the car.

You reduce stress and wear on the drivetrain and brake assembly. This is simply due to most folks use their brakes while they perform a burnout to control "roll". (thus the name that you've probably seen "roll control" for a LL solenoid came about). Brake usage is probably used more with auto-transmission drivers to initiate a burnout. Manual drivers either pop the clutch then apply the brakes to control roll (reason for the roll control still). If those drivers (M6 drivers) are not applying their brakes, they are rolling forward, to the left/right etc with little "control".

Anytime you are not using a LL solenoid using your brakes to conrol the car, initiate a burnout etc you are placing quite a bit of additional stress on the cars components. You are creating unnessessary wear and additional repairs/costs will be seen as a result.

For the price of a LL assembly, you are reducing wear and stress on expensive components while providing stability during a burnout. At minimum, they are a fun low cost addition. Typically, once a customer uses one for the first time, they realize what they have been missing.

 

almost forgot to mention their customer service kicks ***

 

Clutch was gone and 2nd needed synchros so I swapped to auto. Did a line lock shortly after and absolutely love it.

 

Great info... thanks alot i will def check out ur site and get my line lock kit from you guys. Thanks again!
-Ryan

 

i think they are made more for M6's.

 

Some line lock kits require mods to fit to your car. My SLP kit was literally a drop in unit. Absolutely no problems, no issues, perfect fitment. Just something to consider.
And to an earlier poster, meow. And, you know not of what you speak.
Got mine after I burned out my rear brakes in less than 30k miles doing burnouts at the track. An excellent investment, IMHO.

 

LOL

Get tires wet.. move up a bit. Rev to about 4k or so, dump the clutch (car should not move too far) then move left foot to break while still holding gas with right foot. Roast the tires.

You shouldn't have to put a foot on the break until the clutch is dumped. Unless you are on an incline where the car won't stay still.

 

Funny you should mention that. A sore point here...If you look at our front mount kits, SLP appeared to have copied our designs...we started LL kits back in 96 and have been making for the years forthcoming, our kits were sold through many SLP reps back before they decided to make their own kits. They created created a "bare-bones" setup in comparison to our kit. There are so many ways to run these things...funny how they decided to bend the lines almost identically the same mounting the kit in almost the identical location.

I've mentioned previously the shortcomings with their circuit activation. They have no LED which lets you know if your circuit is active...why, because it is always active...not good. The switch is a non-momentary switch which can create hazzards if you accidentally turn the line lock on while driving...it shorts closed etc..

Our kits brings much higher value and choices regarding designs and function.

 

That is interesting. Not familiar with your product; when I got mine I only found one other manufacturer, its product was a jury rig at best.
You are correct, there is no led. Always wondered about that, since the switch has an led that never lights. But it is in my console, so the likelihood of it being activated while driving is minimal, at best.
Seems like lawyers should have gotten involved if they copied you...but I hate lawyers, so nevermind.
So my point was this: Make sure you get a kit that just drops in (sounds like yours does). Don't get one that you have to kludge together.

 

They did change it slightly...making the electrical portion a bare bones setup that is not track legal nor safe. Our setups work very similar to how your cruise control works. You can't arm your cruise control unless you activate the master switch.

We have two switches and an LED. The master switch turns makes the circuit live so that that when your ready at any moment to use the control switch you can. The LED lets you know the circuit is active.

Not trying to create arguements at all, the area was a thorn in my backside when they decided to create their own "exclusive" setup.

 

DOESN'T MATTER, M6 IS GONE AS I HAVE SAID.

 

Not trying to argue either. To claim my system is not safe is interesting. Having owned it for 2 years with no issues, I wonder how long I have before I get into trouble. As far as track legal, not sure what is involved there. The main point is to lock the front wheels so you can heat up the back tires. Mine does.
As far as safety, drivers all over the world have proven that all safety devices can be overridden.
So let's call a truce and let the public decide.
BSEE

 

So all a person with a non-track legal LL has to do is wire in a master switch and LED between the hot side and the current switch? Seems simple enough...

 

There was a video going around awhile back where a guy roasted his clutch instead of the tires. Fairly low mileage SS too.

 

good mod for either, do it