Dave Stubbs

Hi All,
First I'd like to thank everyone on this site for all the great info You saved lots of time and money.

So lets review, I've got a 2002 Trans am WS6. Before I do any more engine work I want to improve handling and braking. I don't drag or auto X but I do drive my car pretty hard when it's safe to do so. 120 on the freeway is buy no means unheard of. And I don't slow down on a curvey street. I don't feel the need to drop my car to the ground (even though it might handel better ) but would like to close the fender to wheel gap just a little.

OK thats my desire this is what I think will get me there.

1. SFC (already done man what a diff)
2. rear LCA with urathane bushings
3. Adj Panhard rod
4. Koni SA all around using lower perch on front and the hose mod on rear springs.
5. Stranos 35mm front sway bar and I think its 22mm for the rear
6. LCA relocating brackets

I'm still not sure about a couple of things

1. I see the need for adj PHR to center up the rear after lowering her even if its just 3/4" but do I need adj LCA. I'm sure if you know how to properly adjust them that would be + but are they something I need on my daily driver. I don't consider myself an idiot and I'm sure I could learn how to adjust but for my conditions is it necessary.

2. Any links to rear spring hose mod would be great to look over or any tips would be great. It seems pretty stright forward but someone always has a trick or two to make it simpler.

3. Front LCA are these more for weight savings or will a noticable differance be felt. I guess what I mean is do you think it will help for my conditions?

4. Recommended settings for the Konis front and rear

Again thanks for all the info all opinions are welcome

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

I think your plans are right on. Only thing I would add is a performance based alignment. Stock is intended to push, and gives up alot, just to keep people who cannot drive safe(r). I have: zero toe / -1.5 camber / +4.5 caster. I think this is pretty common for guys who want better handling w/ out crazy tire ware.

1. I think LCAs are only really needed for drag racing. If you really want a cheap improvement put 1LE bushings in the stock ones. I cannot C the need for adjustment here. I wouldn't/haven't spent the $ here.

2. I wish I could recall the diameter and length needed 4 the hose mod. But it is really simple, just put on heater hose that fits snugly (lube w soapy water), and wrap the top coil so the spring will not contact metal. Do not overlap as it will increase ride height. Just get 3 feet of a couple diff diameters and you will b fine (or spend some time searching around, I'm sure someone posted the correct size/length).

3. I would say-weight savings primarily. No geometry change I am aware of. Upper front control arms can be had from companies like global west to give improved geometry. I would label this overkill 4 the street. Stock stuff is actually quite good on 4th gens.

4. I have my rears at full soft. Fronts I cannot recal of the top of my head. Strano recommended a few (cannot remeber how many) from full hard. I have softened them several sweeps. They R easy to adjust if you orient them correctly, just jack up the car a little, and you can get to them over the tire w an allen wrench--adjust to suite your ride tastes.

**Oh, and this is probly obvious, but the single biggest factor here is probly tire selection. Look for large tread blocks, and 300 or lower treadware. If its a daily driver, and rain is a concern don't get too overboard though. I personally am very impressed w my nittos**

Element

iTrader: (5)

Using rod-end LCAs out back will improve the way the suspension responds. I don't know of any adjustables that are poly/poly - I think they're all poly/rod or rod/rod. You might get slightly increased noise during suspension travel, but a lot of the bind that's inherent in the stock LCAs will be gone. Adjustables allow you to center the tire up in the wheelwell - necessary sometimes after a drop, with large wheels, due to the fact that the wheel isn't exactly centered in the well in the first place, and dropping only exacerbates that problem. I'm going with adjustable LCAs even though my car isn't dropped, simply because it's a poly/rod and I didn't want a poly/poly.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

4, 5, and 3, should be; in order #'s 1,2, and 3 IMHO. The current numbers 1, 2, and 6 are likely not needed at all but can be added if need be later. Also Urethane bushed LCA's not ideal (cheap and help any wheelhop, but an LCA that lets the axle articulate better is a better riding and handling piece).

Feel free to call with any questions. I sell all that stuff for quite fair prices if you enjoy one-stop shopping, or explanations of why you might want to do somethings vs. others, and when.

VIP1

* Adjustable LCAs allow you to adjust the rear axle forward/aft/diagonally.
* Adjustable PHB allows you to adjust the rear axle left/right.
* With both you can adjust the rear axle in all horizontal directions (left/right/forward/aft/diagonally) to center it under the car.
* Ajustable PHB isnt necessary for stock right hide, but is necessary when the ride height is changed (ex: lowering the car).

That being said....
I have stock right height, but I do have adjustable Spohn rod/poly PHB and LCAs. My rear was a bit off with the stock parts and is all straight now with the adjustables. I had it aligned by the tech during a 4-wheel alignment. It took some convincing to get him to do it. He insisted that there wasn't anything adjustable back there. I had to walk him over and show him.

When I say centered, I mean with the running gear (during an alignment) and not just visually.