Sway Bars?
You want best of both worlds, you'll either be happy with one let down in the other or have to comprimise.
If you really are into drag racing a larger rear bar and stock front isn't the worst setup, it'll jsut be a bit nutty with a large 25mmish rear bar.
You can unbolt your front sway or remove it at the track if you want to handle. A Strano 35mm bar is pretty much best on the market for a street car, it was made to be that, and in my veiws it's awesome.
If you really are into drag racing a larger rear bar and stock front isn't the worst setup, it'll jsut be a bit nutty with a large 25mmish rear bar.
You can unbolt your front sway or remove it at the track if you want to handle. A Strano 35mm bar is pretty much best on the market for a street car, it was made to be that, and in my veiws it's awesome.
run any good bar setup on the street and then take the 10mins or so and disconnect the front when at the track.
seems like someone makes a quick disconnect end link. but that may be for rockcrawling/offroading...i get them confused since i also shop for jeep-****
seems like someone makes a quick disconnect end link. but that may be for rockcrawling/offroading...i get them confused since i also shop for jeep-****
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Originally Posted by OldeSkool
Strano bars. Forget anything solid, they're not any stiffer but weigh a whole lot more
I'm gonna go with a ST 35mm Front and 21mm Rear from a ThirdGen.
I should have them on by mid May and can't wait!
I would have definitely gone with the Strano Front Bar if money weren't an option.
I should have them on by mid May and can't wait!
I would have definitely gone with the Strano Front Bar if money weren't an option.
35/21 solids work well. I don't use them simply because they are 20 pounds more than my hollow (and I knew I could save that weight), and the rear bar is all unsprung weight too.
They'll work well for you. GM has discontinued the 21mm rear altogether and the ST front, while cheaper does cost more to ship. Add urethane bushings to the rear bar and you end up cheaper, but not zillions less.
They'll work well for you. GM has discontinued the 21mm rear altogether and the ST front, while cheaper does cost more to ship. Add urethane bushings to the rear bar and you end up cheaper, but not zillions less.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Originally Posted by vjo90rs8
I'm gonna go with a ST 35mm Front and 21mm Rear from a ThirdGen.
I should have them on by mid May and can't wait!
I would have definitely gone with the Strano Front Bar if money weren't an option.
I should have them on by mid May and can't wait!
I would have definitely gone with the Strano Front Bar if money weren't an option.
Originally Posted by OldeSkool
Strano bars. Forget anything solid, they're not any stiffer but weigh a whole lot more
I figured I'd save a few pennies on the solid ST bar up front... plus 20 pounds can be shaved off the car in a lot of other places to compensate, or just make a little more power. Now if it's a dedicated track car (with some street time), such as Sam's, then get the hollows only due to the fact that you want every pound shaved off that you can.
As for a rear bar, I'm ordering Sam's rear 22mm bar due to what he has already said, a rear sway bar = unsprung weight.
Now for drag racing, take off the front bar and brackets, and get a big rear Drag bar such as the Spohn, BMR Xtreme, or Wolfe.
As for a rear bar, I'm ordering Sam's rear 22mm bar due to what he has already said, a rear sway bar = unsprung weight.
Now for drag racing, take off the front bar and brackets, and get a big rear Drag bar such as the Spohn, BMR Xtreme, or Wolfe.
But making more power or shaving that 20 pounds off in any other way (as far as parts are concerned) costs a lot more. For instance you can do a K-member and save yourself 25 pounds, but spend $479 to do it. 
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Originally Posted by Sam Strano
But making more power or shaving that 20 pounds off in any other way (as far as parts are concerned) costs a lot more. For instance you can do a K-member and save yourself 25 pounds, but spend $479 to do it.
Originally Posted by Out1aw
I agree with you somewhat. But I plan on removing my rear seats and seatbelts which make up for my loss. That's why I said if it's just a street car that may see the track a few times then weight is weight. But in your instance with your Camaro, it makes sense to knock every pound off that you can. Not knocking you or your product (I'm wanting the rear 22mm bar), just 20 lbs on a sway bar isn't too big of a deal to me personally. That's just my opinion though.
The strano 35/22 is a great combo and is what im going with once i get rid of some of this debt
Originally Posted by Ericbigmac83
Yes you can make up for the weight somewhere else, but if you save the 20 lbs on the bar and take on the rear, then youve saved 40 lbs. Every bit does count
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
I'm not saying that the solid bar is better for everyone, and I completely understand what ya'll are saying about weight. But for someone like the original poster who wants to handle well on the street, but be serious about drag racing, then why spend $80 more on a hollow Strano bar, or even more on a Hotchkis when they're going to take it off at the strip (where he stated his main focus was) to get the times he wants? That's all I was saying, not trying to argue about whether weight is important or not.