Need Help: Steering Rack Removal
Need Help: Steering Rack Removal I cannot get the steering shaft bolts undone to remove the rack and pinion on a 2002 Trans Am. I don't want to have to remove the K-member or anything crazy to do this.
Is there an easy way to disconnect the u-jointed steeering shaft?
I was thinking of buying some metric "Crows Feet" to get to the 11mm bolt with a long extension on a 3/8 ratchet.
Has anyone used this technique?
Any tips are appreciated!
Is there an easy way to disconnect the u-jointed steeering shaft?
I was thinking of buying some metric "Crows Feet" to get to the 11mm bolt with a long extension on a 3/8 ratchet.
Has anyone used this technique?
Any tips are appreciated!
If you're trying to get the rack out without pulling the k-member you're going to have to resort to a hack saw. You'll have to go get another one of the bolts to replace the chopped up one but its a lot better than pulling the k-member itself. Its kind of a pain in the *** but trust me its worth it.
Whoops...forgot about the steering shaft. For the steering shaft I just pulled the #1 plug wire and used a small wrench, it didn't require any special tools from me. For the record, don't buy a rebuilt r&p from advance, it went to **** in a couple thousand miles. When I install my bilsteins tomorrow I'm going to throw a used stocker back in there and see how she does.
Last edited by rollinna65; May 1, 2007 at 04:35 PM.
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There wouldnt by anychance be a write up on "How to" change ur R&P. got a power steering leak, go to the mechanic, and they want 1050$ for the job, 1050$ i dont wanna spend so ya im curious how hard is it to do it yourself if you've never done it before?
Well, the tie rods are easy, and disconnecting the hoses are easy enough. The passenger side main mounting bolt is easy.
The tough part is the steering linkage. I used a small wrench and went in from the bottom. It took forever (like 20 minutes), but I got little bolt out.
I haven't finished up as I have been working on other stuff, but the last thing to get out is that driver side main mounting bolt. There is not enough room to remove it because it hits the oil pan as you pull it up to remove it. So, as suggested above, I will remove the two engine mount bolts and jack the motor up a couple of inches so I can remove that bolt and then the entire rack and toss in the new one.
The tough part is the steering linkage. I used a small wrench and went in from the bottom. It took forever (like 20 minutes), but I got little bolt out.
I haven't finished up as I have been working on other stuff, but the last thing to get out is that driver side main mounting bolt. There is not enough room to remove it because it hits the oil pan as you pull it up to remove it. So, as suggested above, I will remove the two engine mount bolts and jack the motor up a couple of inches so I can remove that bolt and then the entire rack and toss in the new one.
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Oh, and felton316 is suggesting putting the main mounting bolts in upside down so that the nut is on the bottom and the bolt goes in from the bottom up so that they can be easily removed if need be in the future.
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From: Anheuser Busch, Houston Texas
I have done this like 3 times and haven't written it up. I think I even took pics. It is not hard at all. Borrow a tie rod popper though, if you aren't going to replace the tie rods. Pickle fork tears them up.
Putting the bolts back in upside down is good for pulling it again, but I thought I might like gravity holding the bolt in instead of pulling it out if the nut ever came off. Just me though. The rack sits in it's own ledge, and probably wouldn't go anywhere even if one of those K bolts came off entirely.
Make sure your coupler is seated all the way on the rack input stub. That, and tighten the **** out of the bolts that hold the coupler on, and recheck them a few times afterward. If those get loose, it will feel like your entire steering system is a pile of crap and about to fall off. It isn't, but it sure feels like it.
Putting the bolts back in upside down is good for pulling it again, but I thought I might like gravity holding the bolt in instead of pulling it out if the nut ever came off. Just me though. The rack sits in it's own ledge, and probably wouldn't go anywhere even if one of those K bolts came off entirely.
Make sure your coupler is seated all the way on the rack input stub. That, and tighten the **** out of the bolts that hold the coupler on, and recheck them a few times afterward. If those get loose, it will feel like your entire steering system is a pile of crap and about to fall off. It isn't, but it sure feels like it.
