help me complete my package
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 41
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From: vegas
help me complete my package looking to lower 1.5" and replace all suspension pieces for my 2000 SS.
this is a DD which might see the 1/4 once a year, so im looking to make my SS a street machine with great handling...i can give up some comfort for handling.
this is what im looking to get so far:
UMI front a arm kit - $629.99
UMI adjustbale tube LCAs - $169
UMI relocation brackets - $59
UMI 3 point tube weld SFCs - $250
what im not sure about is:
sway bar (do i really need more that than the stock one?)
shocks (i can afford konis, but do i really need them for DD or should i just get strano's revalved?)
springs (people seem to like DMS but what's better?)
i have a hotchkis STB now so i guess im good there...so how i am looking with my setup?
TIA
this is a DD which might see the 1/4 once a year, so im looking to make my SS a street machine with great handling...i can give up some comfort for handling.
this is what im looking to get so far:
UMI front a arm kit - $629.99
UMI adjustbale tube LCAs - $169
UMI relocation brackets - $59
UMI 3 point tube weld SFCs - $250
what im not sure about is:
sway bar (do i really need more that than the stock one?)
shocks (i can afford konis, but do i really need them for DD or should i just get strano's revalved?)
springs (people seem to like DMS but what's better?)
i have a hotchkis STB now so i guess im good there...so how i am looking with my setup?
TIA
All of this can be covered with some time on the FAQs and stickies.
If handling is your main issue, you might not want to relocate your LCAS and alot of people myself included see no need for SFCs.
As far as sway bar upgrades YES x40. Stock will do but you can do alot better.
Just search, but I gave you a little bit to start with
If handling is your main issue, you might not want to relocate your LCAS and alot of people myself included see no need for SFCs.
As far as sway bar upgrades YES x40. Stock will do but you can do alot better.
Just search, but I gave you a little bit to start with
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 41
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From: vegas
i have been searching...a lot.
no need for SFCs?? it seems like everyone swears by their sfcs and that they're a must...? i dont see how they wouldn't help.
from what i've been reading relocation brackets are a must for lowered cars. you are saying the opposite...??
no need for SFCs?? it seems like everyone swears by their sfcs and that they're a must...? i dont see how they wouldn't help.
from what i've been reading relocation brackets are a must for lowered cars. you are saying the opposite...??
Right from the sticky on top about lowering in re to the LCA brackets : These are not as important as some of the other parts, but are more valuable for the drag racer, or anyone thats looking to hook up from a stand still. These are intended to correct the lost suspension geometry of the lower control arm caused from lowering the car, and are available in bolt-in and weld-in styles
Read around a bit more for SFCs, you'll see up and down sides of them.
Read around a bit more for SFCs, you'll see up and down sides of them.
alot of people get the SFC to stop the squeaks and body noises, thats not the real reason to get them. Also i would say just for your DD get strano revalves and strano springs hell make it strano sway bars as well. You cant go wrong wth Strano
Here's my setup..
Koni SA's
Stock springs (front lower perch)
Strano 35mm hollow front swaybar (poly bushings/endlinks)
SLP 21mm solid rear swaybar (1LE bushings/poly endlinks)
UMI poly/rod on-car adjustable panhard bar
"Generic" poly/poly LCAs (will be replaced by UMI poly/rod soon)
UMI 3pt SFCs (bolt in and will get welded once I get around to installing the Wolfe rollbar)
UMI chassis-mount adjustable torque arm set to -1.5*
UMI strut tower bar
Car feels great. Only cut a 1.83 60' on the ET Streets, but my technique is the problem. I had some deadhooks/bogs with this suspension setup, so it CAN hook, you just need to know how to launch right.
I did order Strano's springs and those will go on as soon when they arrive. With that, my suspension will be finished.
Konis are nice because you can adjust the rebound settings on the front shocks for at the strip (soften them all the way). I also have an airbag in my right rear spring...helped the car take off a LOT more level.
My goals were the same as yours, and I think its just about perfect for where I wanted it. A great handling street car that can still run well at the track. Granted, if I had an auto and drag suspension, I'd be pulling the wheels off the ground and running solid low 11s, but my car is just as fast from a roll and it can handle
The STB was fairly useless I believe (I only ordered it for looks anyways), but I did like the SFCs. I mainly wanted them for the strip, so I wouldn't tweak the frame with any hard launches or anything, but they definitely made a difference in interior squeaks (zero now).
Koni SA's
Stock springs (front lower perch)
Strano 35mm hollow front swaybar (poly bushings/endlinks)
SLP 21mm solid rear swaybar (1LE bushings/poly endlinks)
UMI poly/rod on-car adjustable panhard bar
"Generic" poly/poly LCAs (will be replaced by UMI poly/rod soon)
UMI 3pt SFCs (bolt in and will get welded once I get around to installing the Wolfe rollbar)
UMI chassis-mount adjustable torque arm set to -1.5*
UMI strut tower bar
Car feels great. Only cut a 1.83 60' on the ET Streets, but my technique is the problem. I had some deadhooks/bogs with this suspension setup, so it CAN hook, you just need to know how to launch right.
I did order Strano's springs and those will go on as soon when they arrive. With that, my suspension will be finished.
Konis are nice because you can adjust the rebound settings on the front shocks for at the strip (soften them all the way). I also have an airbag in my right rear spring...helped the car take off a LOT more level.
My goals were the same as yours, and I think its just about perfect for where I wanted it. A great handling street car that can still run well at the track. Granted, if I had an auto and drag suspension, I'd be pulling the wheels off the ground and running solid low 11s, but my car is just as fast from a roll and it can handle
The STB was fairly useless I believe (I only ordered it for looks anyways), but I did like the SFCs. I mainly wanted them for the strip, so I wouldn't tweak the frame with any hard launches or anything, but they definitely made a difference in interior squeaks (zero now).
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: vegas
Originally Posted by Ace$nyper
Right from the sticky on top about lowering in re to the LCA brackets : These are not as important as some of the other parts, but are more valuable for the drag racer, or anyone thats looking to hook up from a stand still. These are intended to correct the lost suspension geometry of the lower control arm caused from lowering the car, and are available in bolt-in and weld-in styles
Read around a bit more for SFCs, you'll see up and down sides of them.
Read around a bit more for SFCs, you'll see up and down sides of them.
as for the SFCs, i thought i read people saying how much tighter the car is and how much they help with cornering and such. guess i need to read more...?
well thanks for the info...this is exactly why i asked.
Trending Topics
LCA brackets are a good idea if you'll be lowering the car and still want good straightline bite. They will however have a negative effect on handling, but not very noticeable on the street. I've got a pair of them that I'll have welded on my 9" once my springs arrive.
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Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: vegas
Originally Posted by DuronClocker
Here's my setup..
Koni SA's
Stock springs (front lower perch)
Strano 35mm hollow front swaybar (poly bushings/endlinks)
SLP 21mm solid rear swaybar (1LE bushings/poly endlinks)
UMI poly/rod on-car adjustable panhard bar
"Generic" poly/poly LCAs (will be replaced by UMI poly/rod soon)
UMI 3pt SFCs (bolt in and will get welded once I get around to installing the Wolfe rollbar)
UMI chassis-mount adjustable torque arm set to -1.5*
UMI strut tower bar
Car feels great. Only cut a 1.83 60' on the ET Streets, but my technique is the problem. I had some deadhooks/bogs with this suspension setup, so it CAN hook, you just need to know how to launch right.
I did order Strano's springs and those will go on as soon when they arrive. With that, my suspension will be finished.
Konis are nice because you can adjust the rebound settings on the front shocks for at the strip (soften them all the way). I also have an airbag in my right rear spring...helped the car take off a LOT more level.
My goals were the same as yours, and I think its just about perfect for where I wanted it. A great handling street car that can still run well at the track. Granted, if I had an auto and drag suspension, I'd be pulling the wheels off the ground and running solid low 11s, but my car is just as fast from a roll and it can handle
The STB was fairly useless I believe (I only ordered it for looks anyways), but I did like the SFCs. I mainly wanted them for the strip, so I wouldn't tweak the frame with any hard launches or anything, but they definitely made a difference in interior squeaks (zero now).
Koni SA's
Stock springs (front lower perch)
Strano 35mm hollow front swaybar (poly bushings/endlinks)
SLP 21mm solid rear swaybar (1LE bushings/poly endlinks)
UMI poly/rod on-car adjustable panhard bar
"Generic" poly/poly LCAs (will be replaced by UMI poly/rod soon)
UMI 3pt SFCs (bolt in and will get welded once I get around to installing the Wolfe rollbar)
UMI chassis-mount adjustable torque arm set to -1.5*
UMI strut tower bar
Car feels great. Only cut a 1.83 60' on the ET Streets, but my technique is the problem. I had some deadhooks/bogs with this suspension setup, so it CAN hook, you just need to know how to launch right.
I did order Strano's springs and those will go on as soon when they arrive. With that, my suspension will be finished.
Konis are nice because you can adjust the rebound settings on the front shocks for at the strip (soften them all the way). I also have an airbag in my right rear spring...helped the car take off a LOT more level.
My goals were the same as yours, and I think its just about perfect for where I wanted it. A great handling street car that can still run well at the track. Granted, if I had an auto and drag suspension, I'd be pulling the wheels off the ground and running solid low 11s, but my car is just as fast from a roll and it can handle
The STB was fairly useless I believe (I only ordered it for looks anyways), but I did like the SFCs. I mainly wanted them for the strip, so I wouldn't tweak the frame with any hard launches or anything, but they definitely made a difference in interior squeaks (zero now).
sweet...thank you very much for you reply. i not to far off it sounds.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: vegas
Originally Posted by DuronClocker
LCA brackets are a good idea if you'll be lowering the car and still want good straightline bite. They will however have a negative effect on handling, but not very noticeable on the street. I've got a pair of them that I'll have welded on my 9" once my springs arrive.
when you say not very noticeable, how much are we talking here?
would i be better off not using the brackets?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: vegas
Originally Posted by DuronClocker
If you don't lower the car....don't get the brackets unless you're drag racing.
If you lower the car...get the brackets unless you're hardcore into auto-x/road racing.
If you lower the car...get the brackets unless you're hardcore into auto-x/road racing.
thanks again.