LCA true length
Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
but how much will they take
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
From: TX
My only other concern with using those would be whether they're too wide.. if there would be enough space between the housing and the two sides of the mounting point that it would be bolted between. If the housing contacts the sheet metal, that would eleminate all those degrees of rotation. It seems to me that even the 2 inch (diameter) version would run that risk. i didnt see the width anywhere
Originally Posted by VIP1
How so?
I, for one, would not trust my car nor my life to such a venture.
But again, perhaps that is just me.
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
Perhaps I am over reacting. But I recall our discussion a few months ago about LCAs. And I consider the importance of having the ends exactly parallel with each other. And then putting the correct type of ends on each end (poly/poly. poly/rod, rod/rod) and insuring that they are correctly parallel, as well as the correct length (being non-adjustable). And all this work for a $150-200 part on a $10k car. I just wonder why, when there are companies out there that do this for a living, have all the jigs correctly set up, tested, verified, and proven to be correct.
I, for one, would not trust my car nor my life to such a venture.
But again, perhaps that is just me.
I, for one, would not trust my car nor my life to such a venture.
But again, perhaps that is just me.
well koolaid kid
i have welded for the last 5 years of my life. i trust my weld more then anyone i know or came across. i am certified in all welding fields.
so why pay 150-200 or even 300 for the good stuff when i can make it for less and make it the way i want it to be. not stuck by other companies limits. any leght, any color, any size, easy just let me know oh yes i do adj. just not most pop
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
From: TX
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
Perhaps I am over reacting. But I recall our discussion a few months ago about LCAs. And I consider the importance of having the ends exactly parallel with each other. And then putting the correct type of ends on each end (poly/poly. poly/rod, rod/rod) and insuring that they are correctly parallel, as well as the correct length (being non-adjustable). And all this work for a $150-200 part on a $10k car. I just wonder why, when there are companies out there that do this for a living, have all the jigs correctly set up, tested, verified, and proven to be correct.
I, for one, would not trust my car nor my life to such a venture.
But again, perhaps that is just me.
I, for one, would not trust my car nor my life to such a venture.
But again, perhaps that is just me.
And besides all of that, the best way to go is just to get threaded rod from a chassis fabrication place in whatever style you want- aluminum, steel, round, hex, sweged with wrench flats, etc. Just get it in the right length and order the proper rod ends (or johnny joints, or whatever you like) and thread them on with jam nuts and you've got a pair of lightweight, incredibly strong LCA's that cost less than 75 bucks and you dont have to weld anything.
But for people who don't know- they can just buy the aftermarket ones... thats what they're there for
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Originally Posted by OldeSkool
My only other concern with using those would be whether they're too wide.. if there would be enough space between the housing and the two sides of the mounting point that it would be bolted between. If the housing contacts the sheet metal, that would eleminate all those degrees of rotation. It seems to me that even the 2 inch (diameter) version would run that risk. i didnt see the width anywhere
