LCA true length
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
The perfect length that centers the rear will be difference for every car. Just take the car in for an alignment and get them to align the rear too. Make sure to explain to them that you have aftermarket adjustable components in the rear that need to be adjusted and double check the results on the printout. When I took mine in for a 4-wheel alignment, the guy didn't believe me at first. He insisted that there wasn't anything in the rear that could be adjusted. I had to point them out to him. Once he saw them, he adjusted everything to spec. My rear is now properly aligned. It was slightly off with the stock parts.
with the LCAs thrust angle can be corrected. and with a PHB, the the axle can be centered left to right, i havent looked in depth, but as far as i could see in our alignment machines at work, there isnt any measurement for that, i guess if i were interested in correcting that, i'd have to line it up to the wheel wells. if that is the case its not worth it because the body of the car is not necessarily straight.
thrust angle is a helpful adjustment though.
thrust angle is a helpful adjustment though.
Originally Posted by VIP1
The perfect length that centers the rear will be difference for every car. Just take the car in for an alignment and get them to align the rear too. Make sure to explain to them that you have aftermarket adjustable components in the rear that need to be adjusted and double check the results on the printout. When I took mine in for a 4-wheel alignment, the guy didn't believe me at first. He insisted that there wasn't anything in the rear that could be adjusted. I had to point them out to him. Once he saw them, he adjusted everything to spec. My rear is now properly aligned. It was slightly off with the stock parts.
i don't have adj. ones. i am making my own. i aint paying someone to make something out of metal. i do that for a living.
so that is why i wanted to know size. didn't want to make it a adjustible one. less parts to break.
so any more help would be helpful
Mine was 1\2 inch off.
I welded my lower control arm brackets to correct this.
What a mistake! Now my tire rubes the front inside of the wheel well.
How much u making these for? I'd be intrested in a set 1\2 inch longer. I dont want to go adjustable either.
I'm running a 315\35-17 with a 17x 11 wheel.
I welded my lower control arm brackets to correct this.
What a mistake! Now my tire rubes the front inside of the wheel well.
How much u making these for? I'd be intrested in a set 1\2 inch longer. I dont want to go adjustable either.
I'm running a 315\35-17 with a 17x 11 wheel.
Originally Posted by Sartobuilt
Mine was 1\2 inch off.
I welded my lower control arm brackets to correct this.
What a mistake! Now my tire rubes the front inside of the wheel well.
How much u making these for? I'd be intrested in a set 1\2 inch longer. I dont want to go adjustable either.
I'm running a 315\35-17 with a 17x 11 wheel.
I welded my lower control arm brackets to correct this.
What a mistake! Now my tire rubes the front inside of the wheel well.
How much u making these for? I'd be intrested in a set 1\2 inch longer. I dont want to go adjustable either.
I'm running a 315\35-17 with a 17x 11 wheel.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
From: Evansville, IN
Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
ok but your adjustable is held buy a 3/4" part. my not adj is 1.5x2.5 tube. storng as F***
Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
ok but your adjustable is held buy a 3/4" part. my not adj is 1.5x2.5 tube. storng as F***
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
From: TX
I haven't gone looking, but i've seen more non-adjustable stuff busted than adjustable stuff... its usually the welds at the ends of the tubes where the bushings are that break, or the actual metal tube section that retains the bushing, i've seen that break as well
Also.. how are your custom LCAs going to allow for twist? LCAs need to be able to twist to allow for full articulation.. as in when only one wheel goes over a bump.. this is what adjustables (rod ends) are best at... allowing articulation without flex. and what non-adjustable LCA's are bad at- suspension bind
Also.. how are your custom LCAs going to allow for twist? LCAs need to be able to twist to allow for full articulation.. as in when only one wheel goes over a bump.. this is what adjustables (rod ends) are best at... allowing articulation without flex. and what non-adjustable LCA's are bad at- suspension bind
Originally Posted by OldeSkool
I haven't gone looking, but i've seen more non-adjustable stuff busted than adjustable stuff... its usually the welds at the ends of the tubes where the bushings are that break, or the actual metal tube section that retains the bushing, i've seen that break as well
Also.. how are your custom LCAs going to allow for twist? LCAs need to be able to twist to allow for full articulation.. as in when only one wheel goes over a bump.. this is what adjustables (rod ends) are best at... allowing articulation without flex. and what non-adjustable LCA's are bad at- suspension bind
Also.. how are your custom LCAs going to allow for twist? LCAs need to be able to twist to allow for full articulation.. as in when only one wheel goes over a bump.. this is what adjustables (rod ends) are best at... allowing articulation without flex. and what non-adjustable LCA's are bad at- suspension bind
No joke. I can hear the difference when my car goes over something. I can't even describe the sound. Almost a bump followed by a ping.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
From: TX
Originally Posted by Big Bird WS6
well idk. but sure looks like BMR(a very big suspension comapny) has lca that retain the bushing. they work fine. and all the normal length ones i have made work fine.
Originally Posted by OldeSkool
Also.. how are your custom LCAs going to allow for twist? LCAs need to be able to twist to allow for full articulation.. as in when only one wheel goes over a bump.. this is what adjustables (rod ends) are best at... allowing articulation without flex. and what non-adjustable LCA's are bad at- suspension bind
Stock LCA's SUCK for anyone who wants a performance oriented street car...someone who wants a stockish car thats nice to drive and doesn't push it hard will probably have no problems with them...but for someone who wants something better, for the street, that isn't horrible on NVH, that lasts for YEARS AND YEARS in all sorts of awful climate conditions...I was going to post a link but I realized they're not a sponsor, so the link would probably just get deleted (but they're BIG in the off road world). I guess all I can say is that they're spherical, but they're isolated with poly, they articulate further than most rod ends, and you can even get them in a "rod end" style that allows for adjustability if you really want to (in order to help you stuff huge tires under the car or for some other reason)...and they last FOREVER and cost next to nothing to "rebuild" if you ever need to.
The arms you see breaking at a weld with poly bushings are doing that because of improper welding, improper heat treating (which you can do yourself with a torch and some oil if you need/want to) and also a lot of the time because people use too small an ID and run a very small bushing, resulting in not enough poly to have enoush crush/squish room and thus things bind easily and break.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,118
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From: TX
anyway... the stock LCAs dont suck, they twist as they're designed to and are infact quite good for handling (with new solid rubber). they're also the most liveable on the street as far as comfort goes. maybe not the best for drag racing but if your goal is a daily driven drag car, then your best bet is a poly/rod combo. which allows the axle end to have rod end to allow articulation and has a poly bushing at the body end to keep things comfortable. Best of all worlds IMO
Originally Posted by OldeSkool
anyway... the stock LCAs dont suck, they twist as they're designed to and are infact quite good for handling (with new solid rubber). they're also the most liveable on the street as far as comfort goes. maybe not the best for drag racing but if your goal is a daily driven drag car, then your best bet is a poly/rod combo. which allows the axle end to have rod end to allow articulation and has a poly bushing at the body end to keep things comfortable. Best of all worlds IMO
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
From: TX
I believe you can post non-sponsor links as long as its for a technical purpose. If not, the mod will do away with it.
Anywyway, I believe these are what you're talking about
http://currieenterprises.com/cestore/johnnyjoints.aspx
Anywyway, I believe these are what you're talking about
http://currieenterprises.com/cestore/johnnyjoints.aspx