Front sway bar or not?
just try it.
i ment to imply that you never have had QA1s, dont have any first hand experiance on the subject and are being a douchbag for giving advice and preaching about something you have never done firsthand or otherwise.
but really, in your reply of calling them crap and then referring to your konis as great... well, now everyone knows you are the stereotypical douchebag that buys the "best bolt ons" and goes off thinking his car is the ****.
if you had, penske or ohlins shocks, or some other high end ones, you could call QA1s ****, and id agree.. but you have the same mass produced shocks of similar quality as the QA1s.. only diff is you're valved within one range, and the QA1s are valved very differently with a much broader range. apples and oranges.. but you probably dont know enough about either subject to know that.. all you know is QA1s are drag car struts, and that means they handle like ****.
you've added nothing to this thread, and other then a reply to this, you have nothing useful to add. thanks for wasting everyones time.

The dead horse wasn't even being asked to be beaten in the original question no the error on my part was not putting the past tense on what i said.
i ment to imply that you never have had QA1s, dont have any first hand experiance on the subject and are being a douchbag for giving advice and preaching about something you have never done firsthand or otherwise.
Just stating, Koni shocks damper better than QA1s, so there shouldn't be an argument on which provide less body roll. I figured since I just went up 3mm in bar size, and noticed that much of a difference, wouldn't it be logical to say that completely taking the bar off would show a more dramatic difference?
they both dampen perfectly fine.
the difference is simple... your konis are set for road race use.. its compression dampening and rebound dampening are set to be tight, and your adjustment range is for fine tuning that tightness to the track you're on.
the QA1s are valved VERY differently. their range of operation goes from extremely loose, to extremely firm. because of this they are not good for fine tuning to a road race track, however they do have their uses.
on their lowest settings, they behave alot like 90/10 drag struts.. they have almost no rebound dampening, and mild compression dampening. this allows the front end of the car to rise quickly in a straight line, and the compression dampening holds it up a tad (as well as helps save your oil pan if you come down hard.)
on their firmest settings, the shock is MUCH stiffer then your koni. so stiff in fact, that on a quick side to side swerve like an emergency lane change, theres almost no body roll... because they dampen the movement.
of course, if you were to sustain that cornering force, the shock would gradually compress.. but at that point you're not driving your drag car, like a drag car. in anycase, the ride is a bit harsher over rough pavement, but much safer then driving around with real 90/10s
on their midrange settings its closer to stock or your konis.. but like i said, a click one way or the other makes a much larger diff then on your shocks.
they're made for "do it all" cars that want to drive to the dragstrip, race, and drive to work the next day.
if you listened to the street/strip drag guys, you'd hear nothing but good about QA1s, and you'd never see a koni in the front of any of them... because stiff road race shocks dont allow enough weight transfer to work in drag racing.
the original thread is about drag racing. no turning involved.
Leave it on or take it off. It's your car and you can do what you want with it.
Re'
Leave it on or take it off. It's your car and you can do what you want with it.
Re'
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Leave it on or take it off. It's your car and you can do what you want with it.
Re'
if you're driving a DRAG CAR then you SHOULD be cornering like a little old lady.
if you're not, then your a dumbass for making a drag car.
on their midrange settings its closer to stock or your konis.. but like i said, a click one way or the other makes a much larger diff then on your shocks.
without the QA1s, yes, the diff is huge. but with the QA1s, the diff is minimal unless you have a sustained hard corner.. and if you do that with your drag car, you're asking for trouble anyway.
but, that would be because QA1 shocks are not ment for handling, or ride quality.
they're made for "do it all" cars that want to drive to the dragstrip, race, and drive to work the next day.
thats because you're listening to road race, autocross, and other handling guys.
if you listened to the street/strip drag guys, you'd hear nothing but good about QA1s, and you'd never see a koni in the front of any of them... because stiff road race shocks dont allow enough weight transfer to work in drag racing.
the original thread is about drag racing. no turning involved.
Where are your shock dyno curves? I'd like to see that data. I've got "drag race" customers cutting killer 60's on Koni's, some better than with "do it all shocks" like QA1's and Afco's and find the car to be much, much better driving on the street too.
Nothing but good on QA1's. Ok, maybe you listen to your street/strip guys too much and if you'd listen to more supsension oriented folks you'd here nothing but good about Koni's.
I prefer my adjustable shocks to acutally vary the flow of oil through the piston. I like my shocks to be gas-charged to help resist shock fade because the oil foamed (gas in the shocks works like a radiator cap, more pressure raises the formation of bubbles in the oil). I prefer my shocks to have bumpstops. Yes, you can put them on QA1's, but they are too short in the body to work. Ask the gentleman I spoke with who keeps bending upper control arms because his bumpstops don't work on his QA1's. I prefer my shocks to have a lifetime warranty should anything bad happen to them. And I prefer my shocks don't spring leaks, which QA1's are well known for.
To each his own, but I'm wondering if you've had Koni's, or if you are just so happy with what you have that everything else must be hype. I've driven QA1's, and don't look forward to doing it again. If you ask anyone who's been on both (owned or otherwise), I think you'll find the results biased to the yellow shocks.
YMMV
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
if you're not, then your a dumbass for making a drag car.
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
but for what its worth, i have actual 90/10s on the front of my car.. :lmao:
btw sam..
shock dyno curves? that sounds about as useless as engine dyno curves.. good for testing and all, but really, sportsman level performance is measured at the track... you want to see 60' timeslips i can show you them.
maybe when the price of "shock dynos" comes down to the same price as chassis dynos, then we can all compare shock dynosheets. lol















