XX11SECZXX

iTrader: (1)

car chatters the tires through first gear at the track. what is the best starting point for suspension? i have heard its an adjustable torque arm.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

What type of suspension items do you have on it now if any? Also how much power is the car putting down?

Let me know and I will be glad to help.

Thanks!
Ryan

XX11SECZXX

iTrader: (1)

puts a little over 400 to the wheels. no suspension right now but its got a moser 12 bolt

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

i'd say:
1) LCA's & LCA relocation brackets first.
2) then torque arm.
3) then PHR.

you could probably switch 1 & 2 if you wanted to, though

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Yes I agree, the first and the least expensive items would be a set a control arms and a relocation brackets. These items can make a tremendous difference for mid horse-power vehicles.

www.umiperformance.com/2015

www.umiperformance.com/2010
www.umiperformance.com/2015

If I can help with any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan

XX11SECZXX

iTrader: (1)

ok is it worth it to try and box my control arms? my buddy is handy with a welder. i have heard of people doing it but i never have seen any pics.

VIP1

The axle needs to articulate. The stock stamped LCAs flex on purpose to facilitate articulation. Boxing them removes the flex and adds bind which limits articulation and adds stress to the mounting points. Its the same problem with poly/poly boxed or tubular LCAs. So, no don't box them. Either get 1LE bushings for the stock LCA -or- poly/rod LCA -or- rod/rod LCA. Rod ends transmit more noise and can loosen over time which creates more noise. They are a wear item. That being said, they offer the greatest articulation and most control over the above examples. Now there are other alternatives, such as the Johnny Joint, but I only know the theory and haven't spoken with anyone that has experience with them. You can search on here and Google to find out more about them. If you only care about drag racing, then boxed or poly/poly would be OK.

z2fast8

i boxed mine about a month ago when i was under my car and i'm pretty sure the factory did'nt use stamped control arms to alow flex in them that doe'snt make any since but i'm prolly wrong i always was told and just thought that there stamped because thats the simplest way for the factory to make them

XX11SECZXX

iTrader: (1)

that makes no sence why would they sell boxed control arms and tubular arms if you want flex. these cars had less then 300 horse when they were built the factory didnt intend on them being race cars.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I'm no expert on this subject, but I'll try my best with what I've read in the past.

Boxed poly/poly ctrl arms will limit the amount of rear suspension travel and bind under roll. That will probably be good for straight line racing. Suspension travel is good for people who road race or autox. Looks like you are doing the 1/4 mile so boxed arms probably won't hurt your times, but might make the car a little more tail happy if you daily drive.

From what I've read, rod ends are good that they provide a good range of motion and are adjustable but transfer a lot of noise and vibration. It's probably why I see a lot of poly/rod recommendations for most people since its a good balance between free movement and sound/shock dampening.

I'm assuming what you mean by tire chatter is wheel hop? From what I understand, the lca relocation brackets are good for helping that. Imagine pushing on the arms when they are lower at the rear axle. The forward force at that point also pushes downward which would help plant the tires. Imagine the opposite situation now where the arms are higher at the rear axle (lowered cars). The forward force wants to do the opposite and pick the tires up while pushing forward.

Though the good launching angle of the ctrl arms supposedly has an adverse effect on turning applications. Everything has its pros and cons. If you get something, you have to give up something else

XX11SECZXX

iTrader: (1)

if that will help my lauches thats what im gonna do i just want to hual *** in a straight line im not all about turning (the car has a spool) turning is an issue.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Would boxing your stock ctrl arms with the stock rubber star bushings even help? Could someone fill me in on whether its his bushings or the u stamped part that he needs to be more concerned about...

VIP1

z28bryan covered LCAs and bushing design pretty well in post #10.


Boxing the control arms will remove the flex from their stamped design. Replacing the bushings with Poly or Delrin will remove the flex from the rubber. At that point, you'll have the same thing as an aftermarket poly/poly non-adjustable LCA for a fraction of the cost. If you are drag racing, thats fine. If you are AutoX or Road Racing or drive spirited on the street, that would bind and be less than desirable.

coolformula

iTrader: (21)

I agree with the stuff here, but Never underestimate

Proper shocks and good tires. Got to make it work as a package.

DarkJuggalo

iTrader: (6)

i had serious traction issues at the track my self, i was tryin to figure out whether i should do lca/reloc or torque arm hehe. im workin on limited funds here =)

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I guess what I was wondering was, would the u stamped portion of the stock lcas flex under launching conditions, or even be a factor compared to upgrading his bushings? If he can afford it, he should probably just get a good set of poly/rod end LCA's

Yes shocks will also help wheelhop, you'd want to address that down the road.

VIP1

Good Question.