Bleeder screw issues, need help.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,830
Likes: 2
From: Wallingford CT
Bleeder screw issues, need help. Hey guys, I just finished my SLP line lock install and it went fairly well.
We didnt lose much fluid so that all went well.
When we went to bleed the brakes I was using a 10mm line wrench the fittings were very much tight and I fear rounding them off.... I spoke with a chevy tech who is my best bud and they used the GM fluid thats like liquid wrench/pb blaster.
Anyone here have this issue, and if you did, what did you do and if you broke it what happend after that....
oh BTW the Line lock does killer smokey burnouts.
We didnt lose much fluid so that all went well.
When we went to bleed the brakes I was using a 10mm line wrench the fittings were very much tight and I fear rounding them off.... I spoke with a chevy tech who is my best bud and they used the GM fluid thats like liquid wrench/pb blaster.
Anyone here have this issue, and if you did, what did you do and if you broke it what happend after that....
oh BTW the Line lock does killer smokey burnouts.
If you can get a deep 6-point socket on them that ought to be
good enough. Brake fluid seems not to have let them rust in on
my POS '68 El Camino (while the lines have rusted through, from
the outside, I replaced both of them after hard-braking blowouts
this year).
Rust eater type stuff is OK but maybe not needed.
One trick I use, is to tighten first. Just to break the rust bind if
any. That way if you round it, you're not rounding the edge that
you need for backing out. As long as you quit before it yields
totally, at least.
But I've worked on plenty of crusty brakes and don't recall ever
having a bleeder that was seized. Certainly not on a 5 year old.
good enough. Brake fluid seems not to have let them rust in on
my POS '68 El Camino (while the lines have rusted through, from
the outside, I replaced both of them after hard-braking blowouts
this year).
Rust eater type stuff is OK but maybe not needed.
One trick I use, is to tighten first. Just to break the rust bind if
any. That way if you round it, you're not rounding the edge that
you need for backing out. As long as you quit before it yields
totally, at least.
But I've worked on plenty of crusty brakes and don't recall ever
having a bleeder that was seized. Certainly not on a 5 year old.
Mine were seized. At least to the point where I could not break them loose with simple hand tools. I had to take it to Midas and have them heat the bolts up. Give the PB blaster a shot though. It can't hurt.
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
I had to replace 3 out of 4 bleeder screws because they were so stuck on, I rounded them out and struggled with vice grips to remove them (I had to use enough pressure to deform them like pushing on playdoh). I had to replace the driver's side caliper (AutoZone has them) because I destroyed the top of the bleeder screw and it still didn't budge (also a piece of it fell in). The driver's side caliper also came off too easily. I think it wasn't working as well as it should which would contribute to the lousy braking I had been getting. The new bleeder screws threaded in easily and worked fine.
Get a socket and give it a try with a rachet. Maybe give the handle of the rachet a few LIGHT taps and I think it should come loose. I've never had a problem with mine though
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,830
Likes: 2
From: Wallingford CT
thanks guys, since I last posted I talked with my bro who was a Ford tech for years, he suggested a lil heat and pb blaster. I also tried to tighten and loosen and it didnt like that. But the 6 point and ratchet sounds like a good idea!
as for the reason why its so tight, the car was a Boston car and I have rust and **** in lil places that I thought was never possible, so it doesnt suprise me about this.
as for the reason why its so tight, the car was a Boston car and I have rust and **** in lil places that I thought was never possible, so it doesnt suprise me about this.
