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torque arm suggestions

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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 01:40 PM
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Default torque arm suggestions

i have been doing alot of research on them but im still unsure if i should run the relocation setup or just run the tranny mounted torque arm. im either going bmr or umi. if some of you with ur setups chime in i would appreciate it. im currently in low 12's if that matters. thanks

-travis
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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I just got a DAMNED good deal on a BMR floor mount. It was a DRAMATIC change from the stocker. There is a lil bit of extra noise and a bit of clunking from not being isloated by a thick rubber mount. It does make the front feel like it is about to come off the ground. I like it, don't think i'll go back to a trans mount unless i have a problem.
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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I'd recommend UMI TA, either adjustable (http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=18&ModelID=7), or not (http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=18&ModelID=7)

Start there. If you really find you want to move it off the back of the transmission, and I don't believe there is any reason to do so on a low 12 car, then we can add the TA relocation bracket to the TA you already have. This one is for LS1 6-speeds, but LT1 6-speed and LS1 Auto versions also exist. http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=18&ModelID=7
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 06:47 PM
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i agree.

The front end of the UMI torque arm (unlike the bmr torque arms) allows you to either use a stock rubber TA bushing OR a poly bushing. And if you do go poly.. theres more poly insulation between the TA and the sides of clamshell.

And trans mounted is the only way to retain a near-stock level of comfort. Moving the TA off the tailshaft isn't something everyone must do. only people who are truly at risk of breaking the tailshaft.
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 06:54 PM
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I wanted to add that running a UMI relocation bracket is a way better move than a tunnel-brace mount TA. All you need to do it look at the mounting points for the tunnel brace vs. that of the trans cross-member and you tell me which is stronger....

If you go the way I laid out, you can do it in steps if you need to, and end up with a much stronger TA mounting location later.
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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im deff sold on the umi tq arm know to decide if i should go adjustable or not. however this spring the car will have a nice cam and heads package. will a trans mounted tq arm still be ok with a mid 11 sec car? either way i can always changed with the relocation kit in spring
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 02:30 AM
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one thing I was always curious about, for those of us who have the UMI 3 point SFC's... mounting a tunnel brace mounted torque arm will severely change the angles of the torque arm... is such a large change even adjustable? I wasn't always very clear on that one.

also, since sam is keeping an eye out on the thread, for handling, the best bet is still the full length torque arm with the relocation, correct?
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 02:49 AM
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I will be getting UMI 3points to add strength to the mounting points.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Demon Of Dreams
one thing I was always curious about, for those of us who have the UMI 3 point SFC's... mounting a tunnel brace mounted torque arm will severely change the angles of the torque arm... is such a large change even adjustable? I wasn't always very clear on that one.

also, since sam is keeping an eye out on the thread, for handling, the best bet is still the full length torque arm with the relocation, correct?
A tunnel brace torque arm on UMI's 3-point SFC's won't "severely" change the angle. A fraction of an inch at the front of a long arm is only a slight change at the pinion.. which you need to adjust the pinion angle anyway.

The non adjustable torque arm from UMI is -2 degrees. Too severe for a daily driver IMO. I had my torque arm set to -2 for a while and experienced a fair amount of noise. Put it to a hair under 0 and haven't had any trouble since.

And a full length vs short torque arm doesnt really make a difference in "handling" per se. BUT it does make a big difference in braking.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by djsanchez2
I will be getting UMI 3points to add strength to the mounting points.
The 3-point sfc's wont really add any strength to the tunnel mount torque arm.. at least not in the right direction. That third point doesnt add any real strength up and down... which is the direction that the torque arm will strain that location.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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I run my TA @ -2 with no issues. Keep in mind that pinion angle it kind of hard to measure and results vary. I had a car in here the guy swore the angle was set to -1. I just stuck my head under the car, and it was so far off I couldn't believe it. I bet it was 6 or 7 degrees, but he somehow measured just 1.

The 3 point SFC's are, IMO, required for a tunnel mount arm. The loads from the arms are distributed through the legs of the connector. However, I still prefer the loads going into the transmission crossmember and it's engineered mounts, and that setup doesn't require 3-pt connectors.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 01:37 PM
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I would get adjustable. I swapped my gears to 4.11's and now my car is almost undrivable because ym pinion angle got changed. I have it parked until my adjustable UMI torque arm comes in.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 01:51 PM
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How did getting 4.11 change the pinion angle
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
I run my TA @ -2 with no issues. Keep in mind that pinion angle it kind of hard to measure and results vary. I had a car in here the guy swore the angle was set to -1. I just stuck my head under the car, and it was so far off I couldn't believe it. I bet it was 6 or 7 degrees, but he somehow measured just 1.
I measured mine correctly by starting at 0 (where the needle points to the exact same spot on the finder when placed on both the DS and the pinion) and angling down from there until the difference between absolute values on the angle finder was 2. This is in fact a -2 degree pinion angle and on MY car this resulted in noise. If you get no noise or vibration at -2 thats great but it raises the question of why? Why run -2 unless you're drag racing?
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 03:01 PM
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That's the right way.... Maybe you had a u-joint that was a little snug, because -2 on my car is no problem. Why run it on a car that's not drag racing? Because traction is traction and your pinion gear wants to climb the ring gear just as much on the street as on a drag strip.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 03:02 PM
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And FWIW, I don't like to use non-adjustable stuff because of situations like OldeSkool had. Not all cars are the same.....
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 03:19 PM
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thanks for the great info guys! i sent u a pm sam about some questions.
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Old Oct 12, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Why run it on a car that's not drag racing? Because traction is traction and your pinion gear wants to climb the ring gear just as much on the street as on a drag strip.
good point
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