tq arm and relocation kit question
tq arm and relocation kit question i have an adj tq arm and relocation kit from bmr. just curious on who has one, how they like it and most importantly how long it took them to install. i want to do mine this morning before i work this afternoon if possible.
i don't have the BMR piece, i went with UMI....but i'd give myself 2 - 3 hours to be on the safe side.
it likely won't take longer than 1 - 1.5 hours, but it's always best to give yourself twice as long as you think you'll need, so you don't end up screwing yourself.....
it likely won't take longer than 1 - 1.5 hours, but it's always best to give yourself twice as long as you think you'll need, so you don't end up screwing yourself.....
I just installed the BMR TA Relocation Crossmember and the instructions need some work. It should only take about an 1 hour ti install. Here what I did:
1. Lift the vehicle and support with jackstands. The front may be supported under the frame rails but the rear should be supported under the rear end to simplify the installation.
2. Use an 18mm socket, remove the transmission mount nut. Support the transmission with a hydraulic jack and remove the (4) 15mm bolts for the stock crossmember.
3. Locate the (3) bolts for the torque arm mounted to the transmission tailshaft. Use a 15mm socket and wrench, remove the (3) nuts and disassemble the clamshell that supports the torque arm. In order to remove the stock bracket, drop the transmission by lowering the hydraulic jack. The upper bolt cannot be removed with the transmission in place. Install one of the nuts and tighten down the upper bolt/nut.
4. Next, install the small BMR torque arm bracket on to the new crossmember. The poly mount and aluminum spacer will need installed prior to securing the small bracket down.
5. Jack up the transmission since it was dropped down earlier. Install the BMR crossmember on to the vehicle. Pull down the torque arm and slide it into the poly mount. To make the torque arm slide in easier, use a small amount of grease. Once the torque arm has slid through the bushing, install the crossmember using the stock hardware. Torque the 15mm bolts to 43 ft-lbs. Drop the drop the transmission and tighten down the transmission mount 18mm nut to 77 ft-lbs.
6. Lower vehicle.
1. Lift the vehicle and support with jackstands. The front may be supported under the frame rails but the rear should be supported under the rear end to simplify the installation.
2. Use an 18mm socket, remove the transmission mount nut. Support the transmission with a hydraulic jack and remove the (4) 15mm bolts for the stock crossmember.
3. Locate the (3) bolts for the torque arm mounted to the transmission tailshaft. Use a 15mm socket and wrench, remove the (3) nuts and disassemble the clamshell that supports the torque arm. In order to remove the stock bracket, drop the transmission by lowering the hydraulic jack. The upper bolt cannot be removed with the transmission in place. Install one of the nuts and tighten down the upper bolt/nut.
4. Next, install the small BMR torque arm bracket on to the new crossmember. The poly mount and aluminum spacer will need installed prior to securing the small bracket down.
5. Jack up the transmission since it was dropped down earlier. Install the BMR crossmember on to the vehicle. Pull down the torque arm and slide it into the poly mount. To make the torque arm slide in easier, use a small amount of grease. Once the torque arm has slid through the bushing, install the crossmember using the stock hardware. Torque the 15mm bolts to 43 ft-lbs. Drop the drop the transmission and tighten down the transmission mount 18mm nut to 77 ft-lbs.
6. Lower vehicle.
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From: TX
If the torque arm has the big fat round tube at the end, you'll have very little polyurethane insulating the torque arm on the sides and a noticeable increase in noise and vibration.
If you have different type of torque arm end, you'll have only a slight increase in vibration. For instance, my relocation crossmember and stock t/a was not bad at all... i'd imagine the UMI to be about the same since they have the same ends. My BMR ta made it kinda bad
If you have different type of torque arm end, you'll have only a slight increase in vibration. For instance, my relocation crossmember and stock t/a was not bad at all... i'd imagine the UMI to be about the same since they have the same ends. My BMR ta made it kinda bad
What set of holes did you use? I picked up a little road noise but, not bad at all.
I am using the second set of holes from the top. I found that 3rd set of holes is the stock location, according to BMR. I might move mine down a notch and see what difference that makes.
I am using the second set of holes from the top. I found that 3rd set of holes is the stock location, according to BMR. I might move mine down a notch and see what difference that makes.
Last edited by Blacker; Oct 27, 2007 at 07:37 PM.
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Yeah I used the second holes from the top. I'm concerned with the pinion angle. I believe I did it right. I usd the given magnetic angle finder, set the magnetic part on the rear end side of the driveshaft. It read positive 4. I assumed the positive numbers were on the right. Then I set the device on the mounting part of the tq arm and scewed it to -6. This.I hope would give me a pinion angle of -2. Once I drove it I noticed a lot more vibration and more noise so I didn't jump on it at all. If I did anything wrong please let me know. Thanks guys
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From: TX
if i'm understanding you right, your pinion angle is something like -10 and yes that would cause a hell of a lot of vibration.
how to adjust pinion angle...
1. Make sure the full weight of the car is on the suspension.
2. Do what you gotta do to the adjuster so that you get the same exact number on BOTH the TA plate on the rear end and the drive shaft. So if the DS measurement points to +6 or -10007 just make sure that the pinion measurement is the same thing. This is a pinion angle of 0 degrees. perfectly straight.
3. Now that you know you're starting from perfectly straight, you can look at the threads on the adjuster and figure out which way you have to turn it to make the axle rotate downward. Adjust it downward until you get only 2 notches of difference and this is a 2 degree negative pinion angle. So say you get 4 and 6, or +1 and -1, 0 and -2, or 30 and 32... etc.
how to adjust pinion angle...
1. Make sure the full weight of the car is on the suspension.
2. Do what you gotta do to the adjuster so that you get the same exact number on BOTH the TA plate on the rear end and the drive shaft. So if the DS measurement points to +6 or -10007 just make sure that the pinion measurement is the same thing. This is a pinion angle of 0 degrees. perfectly straight.
3. Now that you know you're starting from perfectly straight, you can look at the threads on the adjuster and figure out which way you have to turn it to make the axle rotate downward. Adjust it downward until you get only 2 notches of difference and this is a 2 degree negative pinion angle. So say you get 4 and 6, or +1 and -1, 0 and -2, or 30 and 32... etc.