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Possibly from the torque of the car place's a majority of the cars weight to that shock under acceleration. Mine was perfect after the QA1's after a week of driving the right rear sags.
Possibly from the torque of the car place's a majority of the cars weight to that shock under acceleration. Mine was perfect after the QA1's after a week of driving the right rear sags.
The only thing I can see it to be on my 99 f350 is the axle looks smaller on the passenger side and bigger on the drivers side, idk if that right or not, but that’s what it looks like on mine.
If you are measuring to the fenders, that is only cosmetic and the tolerances for these cars are pretty low which is why they are always different. If you really want to measure for chassis balance, that must be measured at the forward bolt center of the rear lower control arm. Either way you measure, it must be perfectly flat and level surface, even a tiny amount off will skew results. To level out use spring spacers or weight jackers. I found some aluminum spacers on ebay cheap that are circle track parts and perfect size.
Last edited by mikedamageinc; 05-29-2019 at 10:17 AM.
I have the same issue even after installing KW coilovers. I'll have to mess with all 4 corner heights to level each other out. I was wondering about adding something to the top of the rear isolator for my my left rear. I tried adjusting the weight jack on that side and it didn't seem to make a difference.
Nobody has figured this out by now? It's because the engine/trans/driveshaft are shifted over to the passenger side slightly about 1/2". Most GM cars are this way. Plus also the a/c unit under the dash is a heavy SOB and on the passenger side also. All that weight on the front right hand side of the car makes it lift up higher on the left hand rear.
My 94 is gutted no a/c etc and I centered the engine/trans in the car when I did the LS swap. I tried to get the balance of the car as even as possible. I can do 0-60's on the street in 3.5 sec's with only the mods in sig and 28" hoosiers with eibach lowered springs (cut 1 coil on rear) and cheap kyb white shocks.
My car is actually right hand drive (I live overseas) so it already had a custom steering shaft that clears everything which is why I decided to center the driveline. I just had to cut and re route two of the 1 7/8 primaries on that side on the off the shelf pacesetter 98-02 ls headers to clear the steering shaft. I went over the top of it and around it.
This post is also from 07' and that dude with one post talking about his super duty bumped it... But, launch can we get some pics of your right hand drive car, did not realize yours was that way!!!
The entire custom dash frame and add on pieces are fiberglass molded, and the frame itself reinforced with only a small amount of steel where it bolts on. So it's very light in total, which is a bonus
Custom RHD c5 corvette steering rack and shaft (was made over here in australia). You can see the first two header primaries going over the top of the steering shaft if you look closely. The reason I think it's a custom C5 rack is the steering joint is definitely a C5 vette style spline, not fbody style. The place that did the conversion on this car was also doing rhd corvettes and I think they used one of their custom vette steering racks. The bump steer etc is perfect, so idk how but the racks must be identical length between the two cars.
The booster is still in the original location. They have done a custom tube /bearing setup under dash from the original brake bulkhead to the pedal on the right hand side with it's own custom bulkhead, a very good job of it I trust it 100%. I prefer it this way because if I ever want to put the car back to LHD, it'll be easy. A LHD dash, brake pedal, steering joint, crossmember, rack etc can all bolt back into the car like standard. Nothing has been butchered. I also cut out the cowl in one piece and welded tabs to it so it bolts back in and the wipers all go back in like standard and work properly when I want them.
I also fitted genuine Philips zed chip led's which are bright as f*ck into the oem headlight housings . Now it has proper headlights. This pic also I took at the time I had the cowl/wipers bolted back in when I was driving the car more often
but I also modified it, I cut out the top of it and fitted another K&N filter to it , as you can see from my pics. The overall filter amount I have now in square inches is almost exact to the 98-02 ls1 air filter size. I also like how it can now pull straight air direct into the maf and tb through the top filter, and the hood gap let's it get fresh air. The bottom half of the air intake goes down in front of the radiator and pulls cold air from the bumper. After I added the second filter to it, I can hear the intake sucking more and playing around with my GTECH it gained 1 to 2 tenths. When I race the car I will just remove both filters but leave the air intake in place so it's straight in but still pulls cold air.
05-28-2019, 03:32 PM
