LCA's tubluar vs. boxed
12-19-2007, 09:26 AM
#21
Launching!
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Ok so Im still not sure what I want. I think tubular will suit me better b/c I like riding through the mountains and what not, hopefully Road Atlanta next year. I was doing a little reserach for relocation brakets. I DO plan on lowering the car some time in the next year hopefully. So my question is, should I go ahead and get relocation brackets?
12-19-2007, 01:56 PM
#22
If your primary concern is RR or autox, then no, you don't need relocation barackets. The LCAs actually perform better and more predictably on a road course when they are angled downwards to the chassis. If you want to drag race too, pick up a set of relo brackets and you can run them on one of 2 or 3 settings to optimise traction in a strait line.
12-19-2007, 06:29 PM
#25
If your primary concern is RR or autox, then no, you don't need relocation barackets. The LCAs actually perform better and more predictably on a road course when they are angled downwards to the chassis. If you want to drag race too, pick up a set of relo brackets and you can run them on one of 2 or 3 settings to optimise traction in a strait line.
12-19-2007, 08:31 PM
#27
Launching!
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So what would be the ceaper for the best combo? Not so much mountain cruises or auto-X, mainly drag racing. I want to cut down my 60ft. As of now with stock suspension I am running 1.89 60fts.
1. Tubular, adjustable, poly, relocation brakects
2. Tubular, poly, relocation
3. Tubular, adjustable, poly
4. Other
Sorry to keep dragging this out, but I want to do it right.
1. Tubular, adjustable, poly, relocation brakects
2. Tubular, poly, relocation
3. Tubular, adjustable, poly
4. Other
Sorry to keep dragging this out, but I want to do it right.
12-19-2007, 09:06 PM
#28
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If you like to corner and drag race, get tubular adjustables with brackets. All kinds of adjustment there. Do it right the first time. Or, ignore me cause I drive a 3rd gen and therefore am inferior.
12-20-2007, 02:51 PM
#29
Yes, you do. Lowering the car alters the suspension geometry. The ideal (and stock) angle of the LCAs (in relation to the flat, level ground) is parallel, or slightly angled up from the rear end to the body. When you lower the car, it's not parallel and not at the ideal angle. At least that's what I've always read.
If you like to corner and drag race, get tubular adjustables with brackets. All kinds of adjustment there. Do it right the first time. Or, ignore me cause I drive a 3rd gen and therefore am inferior.
If you like to corner and drag race, get tubular adjustables with brackets. All kinds of adjustment there. Do it right the first time. Or, ignore me cause I drive a 3rd gen and therefore am inferior.
take a look at this older thread. I used to think exactly what you thought, but I was wrong. you will encounter unfavorable roll steer if the LCAs are angled upwards twards the chassis.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...le+lca+chassis
Again, If your primary concern is RR / AutoX, then you should leave the LCAs in the stock bracketry on a lowered car.
12-20-2007, 05:41 PM
#30
Launching!
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After reading that long *** link that Hpjunky posted, all I really got out of it that every car is different. And that I dont want poly on both ends. So another question I have from reading it, would it be best to stay at current ride higth and not lower the car?
12-20-2007, 06:01 PM
#31
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I'm glad you pointed this out. I'd always thought that setting them level was best because the arms were more 'neutral' then. But, trackbird (if it's the same one I'm thinking about) knows his stuff. My car hardly rolls any at all, so I don't think it will make too much difference for me lol.
Oh well, I know a simple solution: Install ones from Spohn with the stock bolt hole still open and run in the stock location until you take it to the track.
Oh well, I know a simple solution: Install ones from Spohn with the stock bolt hole still open and run in the stock location until you take it to the track.
